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Thread: D-76 -v- XTOL

  1. #11
    CBG
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    Curves and their sources

    Quote Originally Posted by mhv View Post
    Curve shape might be of interest to you. XTOL often creates an S-shaped, midtones-optimized curve. I don't know about D-76 exactly, but other developers like HC-110 create an upswept curve, enhanced for the highlights. For that, XTOL is just amazing for portraits.

    In terms of grain, sharpness you might find D-76 1+1 v. XTOL 1+1 to be very close. I find that XTOL is a little smoother in terms of grain than metol developers, which I appreciate in 35mm.
    I'm not a "curve drawer" (what an awful phrase) but I'm pretty sure I've read, both recently and in past, that the basic curve one gets is generally somewhat more a property of the film than the developer, though both contribute.

    Can anyone source something more credible than this one person's dim faculty for recall?

    C

  2. #12
    Dave Krueger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobNewYork View Post
    I've used TMX and Xtol for quite a few years now. I use it 1+1, one shot. Love it!
    This about sums up my experience as well. In fact, TMX and Xtol has become my standard when I want nice smooth toned 16x20s from 35mm. I can't get grain that small (or the appearence thereof) even from Pan F+.

    To the OP, if you search the web, you'll find a lot of references to Xtol's tendency toward soft edges. I am not convinced that Xtol necessarily yields the best sharpness (at least as I'm using it), but I am convinced that in all other regards, Xtol and TMX are an incredible combination that seems to best everything else I've tried.

    I use it 1:1 and have never had the failure mode that has been reported, even in half-full bottles after months. Maybe I've just been lucky.

  3. #13
    MikeSeb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neal View Post
    ...picking the fly poop out of the pepper.
    Neal Wydra
    God I love these forums. I'm gonna use this one.

    As far as the topic of this post: Xtol is Kodak's recommended developer (IIRC) for T-grain films, and they look great in it. I've used it in a Jobo at 1+0 or 1+1 for just about any roll film you can name.

    However, I too am switching "back" to D76 as my standard developer, because due to life's press I am shooting film less frequently and thus developing sessions are intermittent. I can mix D76H (HQ-less variant, bit more metol) cheap as sand from dry chemicals to get a fresh liter at a time.

    I think that TMY looks better in D76 than in any other developer--but I'm just one guy.
    Michael Sebastian
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  4. #14
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBG View Post
    I'm not a "curve drawer" (what an awful phrase) but I'm pretty sure I've read, both recently and in past, that the basic curve one gets is generally somewhat more a property of the film than the developer, though both contribute.

    Can anyone source something more credible than this one person's dim faculty for recall?

    C
    In short, yes. Both film and developer contribute. Film has an inherent curve, and developer will bend it a little more this way or that way.

    I heard about that difference first on this HC-110 page:
    http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

    And my latest experiences seem to confirm the difference, at least with Tri-X.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

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  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Osgood View Post
    I'm presently using HP5+ in home brewed D-76 with rotary processing and would like to investigate TMAX 100 as an additional, slower film.

    What I find in my research is XTOL is a very popular developer for Tmax 100 and D-76 just about as popular.

    While there must be a difference I wonder if anyone here has bothered to compare them one on one?

    Thanks,
    You answered your own question in the post Bruce. Start with what you know the best - D76. I strongly recommend only changing one variable in ones photography at a time as this keeps things from getting away from you. After you see what this produces then take it to the next step with the experience in your back pocket. My money is that you stay the course with D76 as it is easy to mix and cheap and is foolproof. But you already know that.

    Cheers!

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