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Thread: Elke 25 & Pyro

  1. #11
    Ole
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    I tested a few shets of PL100 (not 25) in Pyrocat HD - development by inspection, but around 9 minutes. Contact print on silver gelatin (Multigrade postcard stock, no filter) and Van Dyke were both good.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  2. #12
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    It looks like I'm just going to have to try this Pyrocat-HD stuff. It certainly seems a lot safer and more convenient to use than ABC. Cheap, too. I'll make it part of my next order to Artcraft.

    Do you find that it yields less general stain than ABC? I don't get much now, just about the same as with TMax in TMax RS developer, so I'm not sure this is even an issue for me. Certainly nothing like the pea soup fog stain I get with PMK.
    Jim

  3. #13

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    Pyrocat-HD produces less general stain than almost any pyro developer.

    My time for Efke 25 (EI 12) is 7 minutes at 70 degrees in both PMK and Pyrocat-HD.

  4. #14
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    Which pyro developer produces less general stain than Pyrocat-HD?
    Jim

  5. #15
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    > Which pyro developer produces less general stain than Pyrocat-HD?

    None that I have tried. That list includes PMK, Rollo, W2D2, W2D2+ and ABC. Another thread in here has some tricks that Sandy has developed to reduce any b+f even further. It is definitely the least tricky-to-use tanning developer that I have seen.

    Clay
    I just want to feel nostalgic like I used to.


    http://www.clayharmon.net - turnip extraordinaire

  6. #16

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    Excessive general stain with staining developers can result from impurities in the tap water used to mix the working solution. Both pyrogallol and pyrocatechin (pyrocatechol) based developers are highly sensitive to water impurities so if you are experiencing heavy general stain with any of the staining developers you might consider mixing the working solution with distilled water.

    Another thing to bear in mind is that the slight fogging of film that results from age or improper storage is amplified by staining developers. Remember that in the summer film stored in a closed car can easily reach temperatures of 130-40F and this by itself is sufficient to cause a slight fogging.

    I am lucky to have a very good source of water for working with staining developers as I get a really low b+f with Pyrocat-HD, and only slightly higher with Rollo Pyro. This is with rotary processing.

    Sandy King



  7. #17

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    Isn't a little bit of BF helpful? This should make it harder to see scratches and dust on the negative (in the print).
    art is about managing compromise

  8. #18
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    I shoot EfkePL25 at EI12. Develop 6 min @ 20c , ABC+ Pyro, in a Jobo rotary. It does tend toward contrasty. My experience is that the PL25 general stain is lower than Efke PL100. I love both films, and R50 in 120, but have to watch the color spectrum on the 25 & 50.

    Cheers,
    Geary

  9. #19

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    I love this film. Found my time to be 8 min at 68F in the WD2D+. The negs printed fine on grade 2. I just uploaded one of the prints into the critique gallery for your look/see.

    After shooting a few negs this stuff is amazing (Efke 25). It has quickly become my favorite film, with Tri-X coming in second. I've been trying to get a handle on Bergger 200 without success. If I don't get better results by the time I finish my first box, it will be may last. Tried shoot it at 100 ISO and developed for 12 mins in the above soup and I the negs are too thin for my liking.

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