Oriental Seagull: Is this the Lithable one?
I bought a big box of 12x16 Oriental Seagull in Silverprint many years ago, its been cold stored and I'm wondering if this is THE paper that lith printed so well.
It's Grade 3 and Lot number 11ON0203
I dont want to break open the seal and try some lith printing basically because I'm a relatively inexperienced lith printer and dont want to waste any of it.
the highly lithable version is Oriental G4 graded, three will work but 4 is the best.
If You bought it many years ago, it is real Oriental New Seagull. Stored cold or not, it doesn´t matter. Don´t waste your time, there is no better paper to "lith" it.
Originally Posted by Fintan
And...what is Oriental New Seagull now??
Originally Posted by Wolfgang Moersch
More than likely, yes, but in several sessions with this paper I have yet to achieve the results that others have. Perhaps folks with more experience with the G3 and G4 could offer some tips here. My development times run to 15-20 minutes, never really hitting rapid infectious development.
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I don´t know. For me it looks quite British.
Originally Posted by PHOTOTONE
In every respect it has something from this certain English distinguished manner. Smells and tastes English and it reacts very similarly in order not to say identically to different developers and toners.
the new Oriental VC has not proven to be a great lithable paper in my darkroom.
I can still get Oriental grade 4 , which always produces the results I prefer.
Pull times within 4 min.
I use Nova Lith A B with a 1-8 dilution. My enlargers all have 250 watt bulbs. NR by any manufacturer but I have been using them for 10 years on lith. Just go through a lot of bulbs. Normal exposures on enlarger 2 stops down anywhere from 10 - 50 second dependent upon contrast of neg. As well I include a flash with most images.
hope this helps
Originally Posted by Rich Ullsmith
Thanks, Bob. The stuff I have is the old graded, blue box, and no fogging. I use the Novolith also, maybe more dilute, but your exposure is way beyond what I have been doing. My next try maybe I will completely omit any KBr, and jack up the exposure time.