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  1. #11
    Sanjay Sen's Avatar
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    Thomas, do you happen to have the formula for the Defender D-58? Google didn't seem to bring up anything. I have a pack (or two) of Agfa paper that is fogged and am loathe to throw it out - nobody wants it either. This would be a good experiment.

  2. #12
    Cor
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sanjay Sen View Post
    Thomas, do you happen to have the formula for the Defender D-58? Google didn't seem to bring up anything. I have a pack (or two) of Agfa paper that is fogged and am loathe to throw it out - nobody wants it either. This would be a good experiment.
    ..sorry, a bit late here but anyway: (picked it searching the internet)

    Here is the formula from the “Photo-Lab-Index” 1949 version

    Defender 58-D
    Water 750ml
    Sodium Sulfite 16.0grams
    Chlor-hydroquinone 4.0grams
    Sodium Carbonate 16.0Grams
    Potassium Bromide 0.6grams
    Water to make 1Liter

    Develop for at least 4 minutes. With more exposure and less time in the developer tones will be browner but some deepness in the shadows will be sacrificed.

    Chlor-hydroquinone stays active even down into the 50s°F range. Much lower then Hydroquinone.

    I would like to hear of your results, if you use this formula.


    ............

    Good luck,

    Best,

    Cor

  3. #13
    Cor
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    For completeness: here is the link were I found the info
    http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/Az...ID=10211&CID=5

    Quote Originally Posted by Cor View Post
    ..sorry, a bit late here but anyway: (picked it searching the internet)

    Here is the formula from the “Photo-Lab-Index” 1949 version

    Defender 58-D
    Water 750ml
    Sodium Sulfite 16.0grams
    Chlor-hydroquinone 4.0grams
    Sodium Carbonate 16.0Grams
    Potassium Bromide 0.6grams
    Water to make 1Liter

    Develop for at least 4 minutes. With more exposure and less time in the developer tones will be browner but some deepness in the shadows will be sacrificed.

    Chlor-hydroquinone stays active even down into the 50s°F range. Much lower then Hydroquinone.

    I would like to hear of your results, if you use this formula.


    ............

    Good luck,

    Best,

    Cor

  4. #14
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    And the big problem here is that Chloro HQ is no longer manufactured AFAIK. If it is made, it would be very expensive. If anyone finds it, let me know.

    PE

  5. #15
    Sanjay Sen's Avatar
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    Thanks, Cor, for posting the formula. It will take me a while to gather the chemicals, but it should be worth a try - provided I can find Chloro-hydroquinone, as PE mentioned it is not manufactured anymore.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    And the big problem here is that Chloro HQ is no longer manufactured AFAIK. If it is made, it would be very expensive. If anyone finds it, let me know.

    PE
    PE

    I just ordered some from www.alfa.com
    John Bowen

  7. #17
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    John;

    Thanks. I did a search a year ago and could not find it. I'll have to check it out.

    PE

  8. #18
    Rlibersky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    And the big problem here is that Chloro HQ is no longer manufactured AFAIK. If it is made, it would be very expensive. If anyone finds it, let me know.

    PE
    I posted this formula awhile ago. It took some searching to find a distributor of this chemical. The cost is a little less then a $1 a gram with the extra shipping charge. I bought all they had at the time. Good to see some could be bought recently.

    I've had alot of success with papers as old as the teens. Tom has seen some of the work and can vouch for this. Edwal 111 (formula can be found in articles) was made with Glycin and Chloro HQ. This formula didn't fog my paper either. Have not tried it on anything older then 1949 though.

    I hope to hear more on the printing of old papers and would like to see other formulas. Good Luck

    Randy

  9. #19
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Yep, Randy's prints were mostly squeaky clean and gorgeous.

    I'm going to try the 58D developer tomorrow with some Agfa Portriga Rapid from the 80s, along with some Velox that expired in 1947. The Velox has actually looked great in Ansco 130, and I intend to try it with Amidol too.

    - Thomas

    - Thomas
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  10. #20

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    Here's an old paper restorer that I have used in the past for this very same problem. The advantage of this one is that I always have Pot Bromide in my cupboard because it's used in many developers I make.

    Water 40C 700ml
    Potassium bromide 100g
    Water to make 1 litre


    Just add 10ml of Paper Restorer solution to your working strength developer, at most 20ml. Develop the print for as short a time as possible or you may experience chemical fogging. Another way to use this restorer is to immerse the exposed paper in this solution for 1 minute followed by development,
    again for as short a time possible.

    Hope this helps.

    John
    Pictorialplanet.com

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