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Thread: Bulk Hypo

  1. #1
    mikepry's Avatar
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    While with a buddy helping him pick up pool chemicals for his job at the pool place I happened to see pallettes with 45lb. bags of hypo. They were labeled Prismatic photo rice crystals! It cost me 35.00 for the bag. No shipping either. So look for a pool supply company cause they use it to de-chlorinate pools if the chlorine level went to high and also it is sold to water treatment plants as well. There is usually a pool supply house in every semi-large town. I try to use Mike @ Artcraft for everything but this is just to good of a savings to pass up. Hope it helps. Best, Mike Pry
    "EVERY film and paper is good .......... for something"
    Phil Davis

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    fhovie's Avatar
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    That is pretty cool - so do you use it one shot and do you add sodium bisulphate to it? I like the TF-4 from photoformulary but it isn't real cheap. I would have a hard time making the switch though, I like the short wash times and not needing stop bath. - Plus I couldn't use it with PMK. ... (Ph is too low)

    Frank
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

  3. #3

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    If you like TF-4 when not try mixing TF-2? It's not a rapid fix but other then that it's similar to TF-4. My understanding is TF-4 comes with a high capacity but TF-2 is pretty good and cheap if you mix your own.

    250 grams of hypo
    15 grams of sodium sulfite
    10 grams of sodium metaborate

    all for 1litre

  4. #4
    lee
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    why couldn't you use regular hypo with PMK. I use Kodak Rapid Fix without the hardner and have no problems at all. Try it you might find it works for you and it is sure cheaper.


    lee\c

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    This is hit or miss, I visited 4 or 5 pool places trying to find STS with no luck.
    art is about managing compromise

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    fhovie's Avatar
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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (lee @ May 20 2003, 04:47 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> why couldn&#39;t you use regular hypo with PMK. I use Kodak Rapid Fix without the hardner and have no problems at all. Try it you might find it works for you and it is sure cheaper.


    lee&#092;c </td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    Hi Lee:

    It may work but you would need to see a before and after for comparison. As soon as the PMK stained negative hits the low ph of acid fixer, a lot of it (the stain) falls off and it will cost you some density and a loss of the benefits of a good overall stain. The reduced silver will still be there and the negative will print - you just won&#39;t get as smooth a print as you might otherwise. I noticed a meaningfull difference in stain before and after the 20min recommended wash. Try some TF4 (ammonium thiosulphate based) and make a few exposures and compare the results against a sodium thiosulphate based fixer - I&#39;ll bet photoformulary would send you a sample if you asked them. One other thing - the capacity of TF4 is almost twice that of acid fixer - helps offset the cost a little. If you use it with prints - you wont need stop bath (just water) and your entire process will be a higher ph and more archival. Less wash time&#33; So yes - it is more expensive but overall - worth it IMHO

    Frank
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

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    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (fhovie @ May 20 2003, 05:23 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> benefits of a good overall stain. </td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    What benefits? Overall stain acts as fog, effectively reducing contrast. The best overall stain is the least overall stain.
    Jim

  8. #8
    lee
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    I have done comparisons before and I can&#39;t see it making any difference. None. About it being more archival I don&#39;t know about that. Being able to wash it out is another matter. Surface hypo is washed out with turblance and the rest is soaked out over a period of time with paper. With film, 20 minutes should be enough time regardless which fix you end up using.

    Stain increased in the wash regardless of the ph of the fix.


    lee/c

    still not convinced

    l&#092;c

  9. #9
    mikepry's Avatar
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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (fhovie @ May 19 2003, 07:08 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> - Plus I couldn&#39;t use it with PMK. ... (Ph is too low)

    Frank</td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    Frank&#39;
    I use the Kodak F-24 fixer that is identical to the one that Gordon Hutchins uses and recomends. Isn&#39;t he the guy that started this PMK craze? I don&#39;t use PMK at all anymore and as far as overall stain I couldn&#39;t agree more with the previous post that talks AGAINST overall stain. If you look on page 18 of the Pyro book he not only suggests it, he uses it&#33;
    "EVERY film and paper is good .......... for something"
    Phil Davis

  10. #10

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    I agree with all that has been said about the effects of overall stain. In my experience, overall stain reduces overall contrast. It acts as an increase of B+F. I have even noticed with ABC pyro that if the Bisulfite gets some age that it also imparts an overall stain. The result is the same reduction of contrast. At least with ABC I know what causes it and what I can do to prevent it. In the case of PMK, it is marketed as being something of value. In fact the advertisements that coexist with the Bergger film ads clearly show an overall stained negative. The true benefits of Pyro developers exist in the fact that the tanning is proportional to silver density. Since the low values have little negative density they should have very little in the way of tanning effect from the pyro. The tanning/stain of beneficial pyro formulations will not be immediately visable to a casual observer by just visually examining the negative.
    Art is a step from what is obvious and well-known toward what is arcane and concealed.

    Visit my website at http://www.donaldmillerphotography.com

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