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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by keithwms View Post
    I've had some 665 in the fridge for more than a year and recently used some of that- it was totally fine.

    But what was the expiration date? That is critical. As I have observed before, it usually is unusable about 6 months beyond the expiration date of refrigerated, and about 2 months if not.

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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by keithwms View Post
    I don't remember the argument but I think hard freezing is a nono. I guess the pods can become gummy or something.
    The pods contain water and Potassium or Sodium Hydroxide. If frozen, they can freeze too and then will rupture. In that case, the entire pack becomes useless.

    PE

  3. #13
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    Ron, the exp date on the 665 was May '07 but I recall buying them long before that (I think it was middle of '06) and put them in the fridge immediately. As I recall it was around the time that 665 was being discontinued and I bought a bunch a few months later when prices seemed to be spiking. I suspected that it'd die in the fridge but it didn't... wish I'd bought more!

    Regarding the pods: dumb/nutty question. If one really wanted to store polaroid long term, might one snip off the pods and keep them in the fridge, and freeze the actual film and positive sheet separately? I realize that the processing would be a pain in the arse, but.... desperate times...

    Related question, why doesn't somebody decouple the chicken from the egg and sell us polaroid goop separately. I'd guess the actual film and pos sheets could be made and stored quite inexpensively and compactly. This might be my cabin fever and flu/allergy meds speaking though.
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

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  4. #14
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keithwms View Post
    Related question, why doesn't somebody decouple the chicken from the egg and sell us polaroid goop separately. I'd guess the actual film and pos sheets could be made and stored quite inexpensively and compactly. This might be my cabin fever and flu/allergy meds speaking though.
    8x10" comes this way. You get a pack of neg sheets and a pack of positive sheets with the pods, shoot the neg and join with the positive side in the processor.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by keithwms View Post
    Ron, the exp date on the 665 was May '07 but I recall buying them long before that (I think it was middle of '06) and put them in the fridge immediately. As I recall it was around the time that 665 was being discontinued and I bought a bunch a few months later when prices seemed to be spiking. I suspected that it'd die in the fridge but it didn't... wish I'd bought more!

    Regarding the pods: dumb/nutty question. If one really wanted to store polaroid long term, might one snip off the pods and keep them in the fridge, and freeze the actual film and positive sheet separately? I realize that the processing would be a pain in the arse, but.... desperate times...

    Related question, why doesn't somebody decouple the chicken from the egg and sell us polaroid goop separately. I'd guess the actual film and pos sheets could be made and stored quite inexpensively and compactly. This might be my cabin fever and flu/allergy meds speaking though.
    You see from David's post, that it can be done. The object is to have a continuous sheet from the pod down to the end so there is no break for the fluid to leak out of.

    As for the formula for the color material, I can give a guess.

    KOH 1 mole / liter
    Carboxy methyl cellulose 20 - 50 g/l (like Citrucel, the laxative)
    Restrainer about 100 mg - 1 g/l
    Developing agent about 500 mg/l - 1 g/l of Dimezone or the like.

    The B&W material is similar but has a load of silver halide solvent and some other things.

    There are patents that show this though, so you can fill in the blanks by looking them up. Search for Pod and Polaroid.

    I used to know it, but have forgotten the details. And yes, it can be added from a syringe and the processing can be done outside of the camera as long as some sort of 'rails' are used to allow the goo to spread evenly. The rails would be something like a mask of about 5 mils (0.005") around the print area into which goo can spread. You can see the 'rails' if you take the print assembly apart.

    As for the expiration date, I guess you are within the cutoff that I mentioned earlier. This would run about 6 months or less from the expiration date in most cases.

    PE

  6. #16
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    FWIW, I made pinhole shots using Type 55 last year that I have had in the fridge that expired ten to 15 years ago. Negatives looked fine.

    Vaughn
    At least with LF landscape, a bad day of photography can still be a good day of exercise.

  7. #17
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    Vaughn;

    I'm very glad you got good results. I know many who did not. I would say that at best, it varies from film to film and batch to batch. I've had perfectly good, in-date Polaroid film fall apart during the process step and make a mess of my Polaroid back to the extent that I had to disassemble it to clean it. Polaroid replaced the materials and acknowledged a defect.

    I might add a comment here that since Polaroid knows that the limit on film pack life is the pod, they do not stabilze the emulsion to the extent necessary for normal films and papers. The pod is the weak point and the emulsion stabilzers are very expensive. Therefore, under normal conditions, it would be useless to make the film last 5 years, when the pod only lasts 2 years under optimum conditions. (this is a hypothetical example to illustrate the problem)

    PE

  8. #18
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    Ron, I must ask an obvious question regarding the Type 55. Would it be better to just develop the film in a regular developer? Am I missing something here. I have some old 55 in the fridge and i don't want to mess it up. Do you just separate everything in the dark and is it messy? Thanks,

    Jim

  9. #19
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    Jim;

    I have no suggestions. Sorry.

    PE

  10. #20
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    Somewhere I read one can shoot expired Type 55, remove it from the Polaroid filmholder WITHOUT processing, cut the film free and process it like the old Panatomic-X (25 ISO?).

    I'm not sure about the 25 ISO part, but the film is supposed to be pretty high resolution (certainly for it's vintage).
    Murray

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