I'd suggest dilution B over A
Originally Posted by Christopher Walrath
First - breathe slowly - a calm mind makes for good quality negatives
Second - it helps to remember that many of the instructions from Kodak presume you are using US cups (8 oz), US pints (16 oz), and US quarts (32 oz). The dilution instructions may seem to make more sense when you keep these quantities in mind.
Now in response to your questions:
1. As indicated in the from Concentrate table on the Kodak link referred to above, 1:15 is dilution A. It was designed for those who like to work toward a US pint (16 oz) of chemistry. It tends to result in very short development times with HC110. Dilution B is more common.
2. There are two versions of T-Max 100. One is called T-MAX 100 Professional. The other is called PROFESSIONAL T-MAX 100 and is (IIRC) the newer version. I would suggest using Dilution B, and using the Dilution B times for the film you are using (it will say on the backing which one it is).
3. Your agitation procedure is quite appropriate. You may want to experiment with alternatives in the future, but that can wait. Just remember to rap the tank firmly but gently (how is that for clear) on a firm surface after each agitation cycle, to dislodge any bubbles.
3. (The second version) I am not sure why you wouldn't have an opportunity to rinse your funnel after using it to pour in the developer. All you need is to have a container of water to dump through the funnel. In any event, having some developer get into your stop bath won't hurt it much (assuming you will discard the stop bath after each use). It is not the same though the other way. If you let any stop bath get into your developer before or during use, it will harm the developer.
By the way - your post indicates you mixed your stop bath at 96F. Why not room temperature (68F)? That would be normal.
4. T-Max 100 takes a lot of fixing. I would use 10 minutes. The best way to test is to put a piece of leader into the fix (in the room light) and time how long it takes to clear. Your fix time should be 2 to 2.5 times that time (for T-Max I use 2.5).
5. When you mention "hypo" I expect you refer to "hypo clearing agent". 20 minutes wash in running water (at 68F) seems appropriate.
6. Are you using plastic reels, or stainless steel? I am not sure what you mean by "rest against the inward loop at the end of the roll". Any properly loaded reel (plastic or stainless) should not permit any part of the film to rest against any other.
I agree that the curl can definitely make loading more difficult.
Hope this helps, and be sure to have fun!!
I use a syringe when I mix HC 110. This practice renders the stock solution step unnecessary, and it is very straightforward.
Take a look at: http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/
No, mixing I went straight to the working solution for Dil A. So now I need to get another US gallon container, fill it half with room temp water, top it of with Dil A and refill the orig container with room temp water and I will have 2 gallons of Dil B.
As to the curl, I did a practice roll in broad daylight and the end of the roll (on the outside) had such a curl that the film was forcing itself, just on the end, last inch or so, to corner up through the spool loops and the other edge of the film was not in the rail and resting against the next loop of film inward. Everything else was fed onto the spool properly, checking for slack as I went.
As to 96F water for stop, don't ask my why. Prob remembering AA on mixing stop bath at 125F and getting it as hot as it would get. Shouldn't affect the bath though.
One other question, though. For the water rinse should I leave the tank cap off or on? Seems to me that the water would rinse out more thoroughly with the cap off.
And, Matt, thanks for the advice on testing the test film in the fixer to time the clearing. Great idea.
Mixing and using are different, I don't know why AA would find it necessary to mix stop at 125, or even 96. Liquid concentrate stop can be mixed at processing temp. Or, just use water. In any case use it a temp as close as possible to the developer and fix.
For washing leave the lid off the tank if you'll be using a running water wash.
I am not sure what sure what's going on with the reel. I SS reels, and prefer to start the roll with the taped end, and wind it with the curl facing inward.
I hope this helps
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Film is cheap
When just starting out, the thing to do is experiment alot. On the one hand, you do want to know generally what you are doing and get the process down. On the other hand, experimenting is very useful. So take 5 rolls of 120 of the same subject in the same lighting and develop all of them for different times approximating N-2, N-1, N, N+1, N+2. In other words if 5:30 is your normal development time, try 2:45, 4:00, 5:30, 8:00 and 11:00 and just see what happens.
In regard to the stop bath, just make sure that it is not too strong.
For the fixer with TMAX, fix it long enough to get rid of the pink cast. You can open the film to daylight once it is in the fixer and watch.
You might not need HypoClear/PermaWash but I would use it anyway. I prefer PermaWash because it is cheap and easy to mix in small quantities right from the bottle.
PhotoFlo is definitely a good idea but it can gum up plastic reels. I prefer the Photographer's Formulary version because it comes in a bottle fitted with a dropper which makes dispensing small volumes much easier.
If you use plastic reels, fill up an 11x14 tray with diluted Photo-Flo. Then clip one end of the film, remove film form the reel holding the clip in one hand and the loose end of the film in the other hand Then shape the film horizontally like a hammock and slide the film through the Photo-Flo from one end to the other. Then you can hang the film to dry. You need long arms for 35 mm or cut the film in half.
Get rid of the storage containers. Use one shot chemistry and discard after use. Fixer is the most expensive solution so you might want to save and re-use that. Don't save diluted developer.
Find a dust free place to dry film. You can make one with PVC pipe fittings and plastic or Tyvek sheeting and velcro from a home store.
OK. Check me on this.
TMax 400 120. HC110 Dev. Indicator Stop Bath. Kodafix. S/S single 120/dual 35mm tank with S/S 120 reel.
Mix 8 oz Dil A with 8 ounce 68F water for developer to get Dil B. Load film. Pour in developer. Agitiate first 5 seconds. Rap tank on counter. Agitate 5 sec every 30 sec of dev time. Total dev time 6 minutes. Discard dev. Add stop. Agitate once. total time 30 sec. Discard. Add fixer. Agitate every 30 sec? Check for clearing and double that time for fixer. Discard. Water rinse. Cap on or off tank? 20 minutes. Hang, wipe off excess water and let dry. Overnight?
Think I got it.
i am sorry i mis-lead you with the solution a, solution b comment.
we mix 1/2 oz to 15 1/2 of water and i had a brain cramp. so glad others jumped in and made it clearer.
just as a clarification, to keep you from confusing us and us from confusing you, (this was BAD nomenclature on Kodak's part, but it is what it is)... TMX is their three-letter shorthand for TMAX 100. TMY is their shorthand for TMAX 400. TMZ is their shorthand for TMAX 3200. So what you're shooting is TMY, aka Tmax 400.
Your development procedure sounds AOK to me. As far as washing, you can leave the lid off the canister, if for no other reason than it makes it easier to fill and dump the wash water. After the 20 minutes washing, give 30 seconds in Foto-Flo, then wipe gently and hang to dry. Depending on heat and humidity, your film will dry anywhere from an hour or so later to overnight.
I think I've got it. I'll hit it and post the scan of the first negs and let you know. Thank you all.