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  1. #21
    smieglitz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Walrath View Post
    OK. Check me on this...

    Mix 8 oz Dil A with 8 ounce 68F water for developer to get Dil B...
    Nope. Dilution A is 1+15 from the concentrate. That gives 16 parts. If each part is say, 1 ounce, that is 1 ounce of developer concentrate in 16 ounces of working solution Dilution A.

    Dilution B is 1+31 to equal 32 parts. If you already have the 1 part of developer concentrate in your mixed dilution A, you need to add another 16 parts water to it (not 8 parts) in order to get to Dilution B. Adding 16 ounces of water to 16 ounces of dilution A brings you to a total volume of 32 ounces of working solution B, of which only 1 ounce is the original concentrate volume.

    Do yourself a favor and either mix the stock solution (1+3 from the concentrate) and then make working solutions out of that as directed on the bottle label (e.g., 1 stock+7 water for dilution B), or use a small graduate or syringe as someone suggested earlier and make the working solutions directly from the concentrate.

    The stuff apparently keeps better as a concentrate than a stock or working solution.

    Joe

  2. #22
    Christopher Walrath's Avatar
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    Sorry, Joe. Must have typoed or something. I mixed 8 oz Dil A (16 half ounces) with 8 oz water (16 half ounces) to make 16 oz Dil B (32 half ounces) for a single 120 reel S/S tank.

    Now, drumroll please.

    FIRST ROLL DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    No, hold the applause. No circles on the film, no air bubbles to inhibit processing. Negs look clear. Where I can make them out. Some of the film didn't fit into the reel quite right. A bunch was in contact with other loops of film. Three usable neg out of 10 or 11. Apparently I loaded it teribly. About two negs, or where they should be, are tanish and magenta where the film was touching.

    But I still love it. I learned that I have the process more or less down pat. Presoak in 68F water for 30 sec., dev for 6 min, stop for thirty sec., fix for 8 minutes (film cleared after three), water rinse for twenty. The negs are drying as we speak. I'll scan tomorrow and post it.

    Now, when I loaded the film I was seperating the paper backing as I went and it was cumbersome going in and damned difficult to check for slack. Should I roll the film out, cut the backing, roll it back up and the feed it into the spool? AND THAT DAMNED CURLING! I dunno, first roll and three usable negatives. . .

    Lemme know what you think. I want ideas.

    P. S. My son Ethan who has Aspberger's Syndrome asked my why I was twisting my hands and banging on the sink. I told him I had to agitate the tank to get chemical to all surfaces of the film and I had to rap the tank to dislodge any air bubbles. Then I said, 'At least it's better than picking on it to agitate it and then letting loose a 'Vrip. Vrip. Freaky-freaky-fresh. Yo, Dog! It's a tank.' '

    Thanks all.
    Thank you.
    CWalrath
    APUG BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE
    DE Darkroom

    "Wubba, wubba, wubba. Bing, bang, bong. Yuck, yuck, yuck and a fiddle-dee-dee." - The Yeti

  3. #23
    Kevin Caulfield's Avatar
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    Hi Chris. Well done. I empathised with you yesterday, as I finally got my new darkroom finished, so after an eight month hiatus, I have a darkroom again. Regarding what to do with the paper backing, I do the same as what APUGer JBrunner does, which I was pleased to see on his video, as most others seem to recommend rolling out the whole paper backing and separating it before loading the film onto the reel. I find it much easier to let the paper come away as I load the film. One thing you'll find is that it's much easier to load 35mm than 120, so you're starting the hard way. (You did 120, right?)

  4. #24
    Christopher Walrath's Avatar
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    Yeah, I did 120 and yes, 35 is much easier (practiced alot last year, though no developing then). Here is link to the negs in my gallery.

    http://www.apug.org/gallery/showphot...86&ppuser=9768

    Thank you.
    Thank you.
    CWalrath
    APUG BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE
    DE Darkroom

    "Wubba, wubba, wubba. Bing, bang, bong. Yuck, yuck, yuck and a fiddle-dee-dee." - The Yeti

  5. #25
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Chris:

    I sure wish I could be there with you to show you how to do this, and enjoy the excitement with you too!

    It is so hard to help through the internet.

    One hint - you can gain a lot from the feel, and the sound of the film as you load it.

    Practice some more in the light, and feel and listen to it as it loads correctly.

    I can do 35mm on S/S reals in my sleep, but 120 remains a challenge for me, even though I've tried it off and on over 3 decades (I have some physical challenges (cerebral palsy) that are relevant to the challenge).

    Even so, the thrill is wonderful.

    Here is a link to a scan, of a print, done from a 120 negative processed by me on a 120 S/S reel:

    http://www.apug.org/gallery/showphot...59&ppuser=6479

    Enjoy, and keep the faith.

    Matt

  6. #26

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    Chris,
    Contratulations! I'm pretty sure my first roll of 120 looked similar. No question that 35 is a bit easier.
    I haven't looked at Jason's video, but it is much easer if you aren't handling the paper and loading the reel at the same time. I agree with Matt and Kevin, unroll it from the spool and paper first. When you get to the taped end, tear the tape at the seam between the film and paper, but leave the tape on the film. The extra stiffness will help you get it on the reel. Start the film onto the reel with the taped end, listen for creases starting, as Matt says. If you're using SS, you can count the wires on each side from the film out to verify if the film is going on correctly. If you count 4 on one side, and 5 on the other, for example, it means the film doubled on one side. Unwind until it's even again and continue. Do this at any point you have doubts.

    I really like you're son's comment on the process, we should adopt it as a theme!

  7. #27

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    good work. i would suggest working from hc110 syrup. for Dil B i take the volume of my tank in ml. divide it by 31 and add that amount of syrup. (close enough for govt work!) lets say 500ml (a bit more than 16 oz). 500/31=16.12. lets call it 16ml of syrup. works well for me. all that stock solution blah blah blah always made it more confusing for me.

    have fun.

    eddie
    photoshop is somewhere you go to buy photo equipment.


    lens photos here

  8. #28
    Christopher Walrath's Avatar
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    I did not use a stock solution. Chem to working solution. Straight line.
    Thank you.
    CWalrath
    APUG BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE
    DE Darkroom

    "Wubba, wubba, wubba. Bing, bang, bong. Yuck, yuck, yuck and a fiddle-dee-dee." - The Yeti

  9. #29

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    HC-110 lasts a long time as long as it is not in contact with air (although I have heard that even half-filled bottles have a long shelf life). I decant my HC-110 into a bunch of small brown medicine bottles I bought at the pharmacy. I fill them as full as they will go. Rather than one bottle with a lot of air in it for a long time, I have a bunch of small bottles with almost no air in them. I also use a very narrow graduate to measure the syrup.

  10. #30
    Christopher Walrath's Avatar
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    I refixed the negs and water rinsed for about 10 minutes (under advice from Alan Ross from BP.com) and the good negs are clear. Flushed out the undeveloped stuff as well. Thnaks all.
    Thank you.
    CWalrath
    APUG BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE
    DE Darkroom

    "Wubba, wubba, wubba. Bing, bang, bong. Yuck, yuck, yuck and a fiddle-dee-dee." - The Yeti

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