Chemicals Mixed. What Next?
I have just received my developing gear/chems. I have never developed film before. The following mixtures were stated on the containers. I have HC110 which I mixed 1:15 with 68F water. I have Kodak Indicator Stop Bath which I mixed 1:63 with 96F water. I have Kodafix fixer which I mixed 1:3 with 68F water. Then I realized the questions that I need answered. Not procedure. Chemistry and times. Well, here goes.
1. HC110 mixes 1:15. Is this a working solution, ready to use?
2. I have downloaded .pdf's from Kodak. One says 5 1/2 minutes for TMax 100 roll with dilution B. Is 1:15 dil A? How should I adjust time?
3. Agitate first 30 seconds, then 10 secs per minute thereafter. Right?
I know Stop bath is for 30 seconds.
3. Should I have a seperate funnel for the Bath to avoid contaminating the bath with developer? (I am assuming I need to agitate continuously with the stop bath on the film. I will not have the opportunity to rinse the funnel between the developer and the stop bath.)
4. Kodafix 5-10 minutes. Which? Room temp about 68F. Solution will be same.
5. Rinsing. No hypo so water rinse for 20 minutes?
6. Tried practicing loading 120 roll film on spool. Practiced with 35mm extensively last year, no prob. I hate the way the ends have a TIGHT curl on the 120 roll film that resists clamping and wants to rest against the inward loop at the end of the roll. Any trick to prevent this tight curling pre-processing?
Chris, you need to realise that film developer needs to be used almost straight away. I don't usually use Kodak devs, so can't help you as to whether 1:15 is dilution A. I'll see if I can find it on their website. I wouldn't worry too much about that last bit of curl on the film. Once it's wet it will be better. Good luck.
1. develop away. this is solution "b" and it is ready to use
2.agitation is ok, i have my students agitate every 30 secs for 5 sec which is about one gentle inversion, up and back.
3. stop bath is for 30 sec. you just need to agitate once.
pour from the beaker directly into the tank.
am not sure what you mean about the funnel. what type of tank are you using?
4. which fixer are you using? that will help determine the length of time.
5. you don't need hypo clear. we use ilford's method for washing as we have drought condition here.
check their website for specifics
6. you may want to add a bath with photo flo and distilled water after the wash cycle, it helps the water slide off the film when drying.
Yes, 1:15 is Dil A. 1:31 is Dil B. See: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe....7.22.14&lc=en
Also, while at Kodak's site, look up TMax or whatever film you're using and get the times.
If the stoip bath you mixed is liquid, why mix at such a hot temp? In any event, it needs to be close to your developer temperature. And fixer is hypo! So yes, wash for enough time.
Facts are facts. However, advice is usually just a suggestion.
Chris, dilution A is 1:3, dilution E is 1:11 and dilution F is 1:19, so you are somewhere between dilutions E and F.
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Hmmm, looks like I must have mis-read those dilutions.
Yep, sorry, I stopped at the first table I saw.
HC110 dilutions can be confusing since some directions tell you to make a "stock solution" first THEN dilute the stock solution into A,B,C, etc
the first time I used HC110 I used the stock solution straight and totally screwed up my film
Dil B for TMax 100 is 6 min at 68F. Dil A, twice as strong. I don't know. 5 minutes? Or should I cut it further and make it into Dil B?
Fixer time, 5-10 minutes. Twice time for film to clear. I can check for this after 3 minutes. What is clearing?
Thanks. BTB, you guys are fast and all over this one. Thank you very much.
Sorry, I'm confusin' the hell outta myself. I bought TMY100 for this year but the film I have to develop now is TMY400. I'll figure this out. Note to self. Calm down. Have some dip.