What shop? I'd be very interested in purchasing it.
Try B&H, they to have some in stock, look for "Polygrade Warm Plus - same stuff I believe - if you click on "more info", Polywarmtone is described as the product, or as the old version of the same . I'm not absolutely sure, so check it out and judge for yourself.
Last edited by panastasia; 02-16-2008 at 04:50 PM. Click to view previous post history.
"Pictures are not incidental frills to a text; they are essences of our distinctive way of knowing." Stephen J. Gould
Some people fix in Ammonium Thiosulphate fixers and
then use a plain Sodium Thiosulphate bath prior to
washing, that seems to make a lot of sense. Ian
May make a lot of sense but not so much more than
other methods as posts this thread will verify. Ansel
did use a 'Plain fixer" made alkaline with sodium
sulfite prior to toning with KRST in a solution
of Kodak HCA.
Of course there is always the question of what is the
sensible thing to do and what are the priorities.
Sensible being an observance of the priorities.
I'd say the usual top priority is convenience.
Repeatedly pouring fixer in and out of a bottle and
tracking the square inches processed is convenient
for some. It ignores though the actual condition of the
used fixer. The condition of the fixer should be the top
priority. Counting square inches is a one-size fits all
papers approach which can lead to wide margins
for error and good chemistry down the drain.
With the condition of the fixer as the top priority
it's proof of doing well is the print it self. My method
establishes a chemistry minimum for each paper. What
ever the dilution happens to be using a standardized
processing technique I'm assured of a thoroughly
fixed print with little margin of chemistry
going down the drain. Dan