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  1. #1
    Gary Holliday's Avatar
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    Forte Polywarmtone yellowing

    I've just finished a series of prints on Forte Polywarmtone FB in Ilford Warmtone developer.

    After reviewing them, I've noticed that 3 of the prints have very strong yellowing on the image and borders.

    As I tend to experiment a lot, I gave some of the prints 1.5 - 2 mins underdevelopment during the session to achieve a warmer look. The other prints were given 4 minutes.

    All prints were soaked overnight, washed in running water, hypo cleared and washed again for 10- 15 mins in running water.

    Is this yellowing normal with over exposing and under developing? Or has there been a problem with the fix or washing?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Gary Holliday; 02-14-2008 at 03:36 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Holliday View Post
    Is this yellowing normal with over exposing and under
    developing?
    Or has there been a problem with the fix or washing?
    Not the first but the second. After stop what
    proceedures were used? Dan

  3. #3
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    This kind of yellowing is incomplete fixing, you really need to use 2 bath fixing ensuring the silver-thiosulphate complexes are totally soluble and wash out.

    Ian

  4. #4
    ath
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    Forte polywarmtone needs fresh, strong (film strength) fixer.
    Regards,
    Andreas

  5. #5

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    I agree with Ian and Andreas regarding fresh fixer.

    Note: Forte PWT is one of my papers of choice, and it responds most beautifully when using developers that include Glycin. It gets rid of the greenish cast.

    Regards,
    Paul
    Last edited by panastasia; 02-15-2008 at 09:16 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    "Pictures are not incidental frills to a text; they are essences of our distinctive way of knowing." Stephen J. Gould

  6. #6
    Gary Holliday's Avatar
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    I don't always two bath fix. On this occassion I used one bath of fresh Ilford Rapid Fix 1+9. With lots of agitation for about 4 mins or so.

  7. #7
    ann
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    i would suggest that the ratio of fixer is too weak. switch to 1:3
    http://www.aclancyphotography.com

  8. #8
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    It's not so much the strength of the fixer it's more the silver content, so as you used a one bath fixer the silver content builds up, as a consequence the residual silver-thiosulphate complexes aren't fully soluble in water.

    Ian
    Last edited by Ian Grant; 02-15-2008 at 10:49 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #9
    ann
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    i would agree that it is the silver content; and frankly i count prints when i print for archival purposes (meaning surface area).

    with test prints i might use 1:9, but not for any serious work.
    http://www.aclancyphotography.com

  10. #10
    ath
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    Ian, it's not only silver content with polywarmtone. I had this happen with two bath fixing and rather old, but low silver content second bath. It seems to be more complex.
    Regards,
    Andreas

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