"I agree. I gave it a super gentle twist halfway through bath B, to fend off bromide drag, but I agree that in this case less really is more."
I've only had problems with bromide drag when I've tried to do several films at once (3x120 in a big Paterson tank) it only affected the bottom film, but quite badly (almost unprintable). Since then I've only ever tried 1 film at a time.
One correction: 1:100 for that Rodinal. At the
Originally Posted by dancqu
1:200 dilution the 2.5ml of concentrate may
be too little.
The main purpose of divided development is
not simplicity but contrast control. Simplicity
is one shot chemistry. Quick is tanks loaded.
That last from my little journalist's
A few more questions:
a) Thornton's 2-Bath:
- Does the sodium sulfite in bath A control the sharpness of the grain? If I increase the amount of sodium sulfite, will this give me finer grain?
Sodium Sulphite 85g
water to 1 liter
Sodium Metaborate 12g
water to 1 liter
b) Earlier in the thread it was mentioned that the use of only methol in Thornton's causes the loss of 1/2 - 1 stop of speed.
Does Divided D-76 suffer from the same problem?
Distilled water (52° C/125° F) 1000 ml
Metol 4 g
Sodium Sulfite 100 g
Hydroquinone 7.5 g
Potassium Bromide, 1% 30 ml
Water 1000 ml
Borax 60 g
c)Crawley's fx4 (as a 2-bath)
If I up the Sodium Sulfite in Divided FX-4, will I get finer grain?
Sodium Sulfite 80g/l
Potassium Bromide 1g/l
Thanks in advance
Hi Harry, Yes to both parts of your "A" question. Sulfite acts as a preservative, activator and silver solvent. 85g of sulfite is enough to eat away some silver from the film, although not as much as the 100g found in D-76, D-23, et al.
I can't answer your "B" question as I've never compared the two.
c) 85g/L is kind of a sweet spot. i remember using perceptol/microdol x straight and i don't remember it being substantially finer... there are better ways like larger formats, reducing enlargment sizes etc
b) 60g/L B bath sounds like a recipe for bulletproof highlights. loss of speed comes with the territory. i suspect that p76 (phenidone version) would give increase in speed. i think crawley's fx4 makes it redundant though.
a) you should get a copy of 'edge of darkness' by Thornton, B. he goes into detail about apparent sharpness and it's relationship to grain. in short, more sod. sulfite, finer grain - less apparent sharpness. i've got an A bath that i use when there's no smooth tonalities in the image that is a combination of metol 6.5g/L sod. sulfite 35g?/L with a B bath of 12g/L of sodium carbonate ( as mentioned in his book ) and it is similar to crawley's fx1 ( which you should give a go. it has to be seen to be believed, in particular the smaller formats. )
hope that helps
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Thanks for the answers.
So, far I've developed about 30 rolls of Tri-X@400 in Thornton's 2-bath and I have to say that these are the best negs I've ever made.
The tonality and retention of highlight and shadow detail is superb.
The negs are very crisp, but not overly grainy.
But best of all the results are very consistent from roll to roll and batch to batch. I've been developing film for over 10 years, but always struggled somewhat with that, using single bath developers. Basically the a 2-bath system is as close to fool proof a method as you are going to find.
It's also cheap. I shoot a lot of film and something like DD-X runs about 13 pounds/bottle. If I shoot a lot of 120 that month I can burn through a few bottles and would rather spend my money on film. A batch of Thornton's costs a fraction of that.
Anyhow, I'm sold on it. I'll give DD-76 or FX4 a try, to get the small bump in speed.
But what I really need to find is a 2-bath developer for push processing, that can handle Delta3200 @ 1600 asa. Then I'll be set.
there's a patrick dignan recipe floating around on the net that is diafine like. the crux of it is A PQ A bath with a beefed up B bath. diafine is meant to do tri-x at 1200.... might be your thing. hope this helps.