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  1. #61
    Rolleijoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Silber View Post
    No roll-film back for the 4x5, unfortunately. I want to be as exact as I need to be in order to consistently print well on a single grade of a single paper.


    THE BEST WAY OF DOING THAT IS CONTROLLING THE LIGHT. WHILE LIVING ON MAUI, I WAS ABLE TO ALWAYS PRINT ON AGFA BROVIRA & PORTRIGA #3 BECAUSE IT'S ALWAYS SUNNY AND 75˚.

    YOU NEED TO LEARN YOUR LIGHT


    I'd like to be able to consistently give myself the best chance to make the best print that I can, rather than wasting paper trying to correct for deficiencies in the negative before turning to the creative printing.

    THAT'S WHAT USING PAPER STRIPS vs FULL SHEETS FOR TEST PRINTS ARE FOR.

    I'd like to know that when I get a bad negative it was because of poor planning, a silly mistake, or mechanical failure.

    THIS COMES WITH EXPERIENCE AND KNOWING YOUR EQUIPMENT

    If by "Can you tell a good neg by looking at it?" you mean that I can tell underexposed from underdeveloped and overexposed from overdeveloped along with making sure that everything I'd wanted to be there was there, then yes. I'd have a hard time telling you is contrast was too low, just right, or too high, except for extreme examples. Sometimes (like when working out bellows extension factors) I just confuse myself...

    - Justin
    IF YOU'RE HAVING A HARD TIME TELLING AN OVEREXPOSED OR OPPOSITE NEG BY LOOKING, DON'T KNOW WHAT TO TELL YOU THERE. IT SHOULD KNOCK YOU IN THE FACE BY 1st GLANCE.

    IT'S SOUNDING LIKE YOU'RE WANTING "INSTANT EXPERIENCE", AND THERE IS NO SUCH THING. ONLY COMES FROM YEARS OF PRACTICING YOUR CRAFT.
    If the lens doesn't read "ZEISS", then it just isn't.

  2. #62
    fhovie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snallan View Post
    I sacrificed the dark slides from a couple of really ratty film holders I had to make a set of masks, allowing me to make eight separate exposures on one sheet of film. Each has a ¾" hole drilled in it, offset to one side of the holder. Using each in turn, and swapping them around in the holder allows the eight individual exposures.

    I use one sheet for determining EI, including a zone VIII exposure, to see how close my standard development time using the selected developer is to the required time (if it is way out I will use another sheet for EI/zone VIII). Then a couple of sheets for -2/+2 development times, and interpolate for my -1/+1 times.

    If I am evaluating the negs by eye, I shoot a textured surface, if I am using a densitometer, I shoot a plain surface.
    That is a really good idea - I had thought I might just pull the slide out little by little buy I know there would be some light flare to influence my results -
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

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