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  1. #1
    mrc
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    Anyone tried developing T55 in 'traditional' chemistry

    I have a little T55 left which is dated 05 and 06. I am getting some banding on the processed neg/positive. It does not appear to be a problem with the film holder, a very clean 545, as I don't get the same issue with similar aged positive only T52, T54, T59 . Rather than just chuck the boxes or just use it for proofing, I was wondering if anyone has tried taking the separated exposed negs ( after removing the sheet from the holder WITHOUT breaking the developer pod seal ) and then developed the neg in other developers. If so which? Any hints, tips, gotchas. From Polaroids datasheet, it appears that normal fixer will not clear the opacity layer, so it would still need a bath in the sodium sulfite. But when?
    If it is possible it might make collecting old stock worth while now that it is no longer being made.
    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrc View Post
    I have a little T55 left which is dated 05 and 06. I am getting some banding on the processed neg/positive. It does not appear to be a problem with the film holder, a very clean 545, as I don't get the same issue with similar aged positive only T52, T54, T59 . Rather than just chuck the boxes or just use it for proofing, I was wondering if anyone has tried taking the separated exposed negs ( after removing the sheet from the holder WITHOUT breaking the developer pod seal ) and then developed the neg in other developers. If so which? Any hints, tips, gotchas. From Polaroids datasheet, it appears that normal fixer will not clear the opacity layer, so it would still need a bath in the sodium sulfite. But when?
    If it is possible it might make collecting old stock worth while now that it is no longer being made.
    Mike
    Interesting question, Mike. I still have a few boxes of outdated 55P/N. My inclination is to try developing a test sheet in undiluted D-76 (after a 5 minute presoak in tempered water). Then I would use a plain water rinse and fix in TF-4.

    I am inclined to sacrifice another piece of film in order to determine the clearing time required in TF-4.
    Tom Hoskinson
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    ann
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    yes, but it was some time ago.

    many people do this all the time
    http://www.aclancyphotography.com

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    Since the conventional wisdom is that the Type 55 negative is very similar to Panatomic-X, check out developers and times for that film. Good luck!

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    Quote Originally Posted by amuderick View Post
    Since the conventional wisdom is that the Type 55 negative is very similar to Panatomic-X, check out developers and times for that film. Good luck!
    I did that and I still have 35mm and 8x10 Panatomic-X in my freezer. D-76 and Microdol-X both work well with Panatomic-X.

    Rodinal also works very well, diluted 50:1 or 100:1.
    Tom Hoskinson
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    mrc
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    thanks for your advice. Anyone like to comment on the need to use a sodium sulfite bath aswell?

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    Sodium Sulfite?

    The sodium sulfite bath is only needed if you use the integral chemistry pod... It clears the "goo" off of the neg. Follow up with a water wash, then you dip the neg in photoflo & dry. If you're really concerned about the fragility of the emulsion you can also add in a hardening step, but I've never done that.

    Have you taken a look at Ansel Adam's book on Polaroid? The section on 55 is quite helpful... You might be able to find it in your local library.

    John "Alpha Flying Monkey" Moore
    www.flyingmonkeystudio.com

    Quote Originally Posted by mrc View Post
    thanks for your advice. Anyone like to comment on the need to use a sodium sulfite bath aswell?



 

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