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  1. #1

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    developer recipe for paper with integrated developer - tetenal vario baryt tt

    hello tigers,


    looking for a developer ( or technique ) that won't provoke the monsters that live in this paper!

    have been comparing test strips of agfa mc111 ( secret stash ) side by side and would, through much sincere labour, approach those glorious qualities.

    i'm currently using a home mixed pq dev ( ilford's 68 ) as benchmark but will banish it immediately on your suggestion! :) enough about you, the test strips say .... agfa mc111 grade 2 = tetenal grade 1ish to give you an idea of the difference.

    my intution says a dev of low ph, no hydroquinone and just metol ...

  2. #2

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    ps. by monsters, i mean the developer intergrated in the paper emulsion.

  3. #3
    Ole
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    Tetenal Vario Baryt TT doesn't have incorporated developer. But it still fogs very easily, in my experience.

    It has also been said to be repackaged Agfa.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  4. #4
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    In the early days (70's/80's) the Ilford Ilfospeed paper was developer incorporated, and you could use an Ilfoprint or similar activator/stabiliser machine to process it. I made my own activator using Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Sulphite and Potassium Bromide, and Hypam at 1+2 in place of the stabiliser. Ilford kept fairly quiet about the compatability at the time, they wanted to sell new Ilfospeed processing machine.

    I don't think modern developer incorporated papers have sufficient developer to just use an activator, but any good PQ developer should be ideal. Not ID-68 thats a fine grained film developer and not suitable for prints

    Ian

  5. #5

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    thanks y'all



    this box isn't agfa that's for sure.

    i've probably made a mistake buy refering to the developer i'm using by that title but it is a paper developer that i've mixed... someone in this forum recommended to me as they got warmer results with it with another paper. basically its a pq developer.

  6. #6
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by el wacho View Post
    i've probably made a mistake buy refering to the developer i'm using by that title but it is a paper developer that i've mixed... someone in this forum recommended to me as they got warmer results with it with another paper. basically its a pq developer.
    I guess it's ID-78 Ian

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by el wacho View Post
    hello tigers, looking for a developer ( or technique )
    that won't provoke the monsters that live in this paper!
    Kill the monsters. Developers are all reducing agents.
    Likely there is or are oxidizers which will destroy those
    agents without affecting the image silver. Ferric iron
    may do the oxidizing but what else I'm not now
    prepared to say. Dan

  8. #8

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    sounds like i'm trying to scratch my left ear with my right ear.



    thanks for everyone's help anyways.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    In the early days (70's/80's) the Ilford Ilfospeed paper was developer incorporated, and you could use an Ilfoprint or similar activator/stabiliser machine to process it. I made my own activator using Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Sulphite and Potassium Bromide, and Hypam at 1+2 in place of the stabiliser. Ilford kept fairly quiet about the compatability at the time, they wanted to sell new Ilfospeed processing machine.

    I don't think modern developer incorporated papers have sufficient developer to just use an activator, but any good PQ developer should be ideal. Not ID-68 thats a fine grained film developer and not suitable for prints

    Ian
    I have no experience using only activator, but if I may tread on ice of my own making, your formula looks perfectly appropriate. One could try a tablespoon of sodium hydroxide in a tray for a quick experiment. If too harsh, two tablespoons of trisodium phosphate (TSP) for less alkalinity, and then our old friend sodium carbonate. It's hard to find real TSP any more, check out your paint supply store. Don't get TSP substitute, that's sodium carbonate!

  10. #10
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    In days gone by, I used Kodak stabilization paper but most often I fixed it. I did not need any developing agents. I threw a handful of washing soda in a tray of water. That developed the paper quite nicely and after fixing and washing it was (and still is) as permanent as any other. That will be the test of whether it has developer incorporated in sufficient quantity or not. No sulfite or other stuff is required. I did not even add bromide, but that may have been in the emulsion along with the developing agents.

    That paper was quite good for my photos of guest artists of the Norfolk and Peninsula Symphonies of Virginia, taken at rehearsal and presented to them the next day after the concert.
    Gadget Gainer

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