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Thread: Liquid emulsion

  1. #11
    Wishy's Avatar
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    Retro photographic also has this in stock (Adox Lux Liquid under chemicals)

  2. #12
    El Gringo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    Why would Liquid emulsions be listed in a Chemicals/Developer section, they aren't processing chemicals

    Ian
    My post made sense when I wrote it! Just goes to show that you shouldn't start answering questions until after you've had some caffeine
    Rhys

  3. #13

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    Last edited by Erik Hartmann; 03-05-2008 at 06:36 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    erik hartmann
    my very humble AP-Gallery:
    http://nehartmann.dk/eh-analog/

  4. #14

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    i believe forumulte sold by the formulary is similar to (if not rebranded and the same as ) the maco/black cat.
    luminos used to also make some, wish they still did, it was the same relative asa as slow film ...

    john

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by RH Designs View Post
    http://www.silverprint.co.uk/altproc1.html

    I've been toying with the idea of trying some as well.
    yes - that's the one!

    SO easy to use - one coating and you're there.
    make sure you use a brush without any metals on it (hake brushes).

    the 1 liters are on their way back, as far as I know.
    (unfortunately not the 5liters though)

    any question on this, just ask.

    (it is really easy to make your own emulsion also - if you stick to the simplest of recipies...)

    good luck - it is highly addictive!

  6. #16

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    Liquid Light is a good material to learn the craft on, as it's the least expensive--at least here in the States--mainly because it has the lowest silver content of any available liquid emulsion. Maco/Rollei's silver content is much higher, and Kentmere's (which used to be Silverprint IIRC) is the highest...and of course, its higher price reflects that. I would consider starting out with Liquid Light, and then once you've gotten yourself in the groove, graduate to the better stuff so you can crank out some really fine material.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silverhead View Post
    Liquid Light is a good material to learn the craft on, as it's the least expensive--at least here in the States--mainly because it has the lowest silver content of any available liquid emulsion. Maco/Rollei's silver content is much higher, and Kentmere's (which used to be Silverprint IIRC) is the highest...and of course, its higher price reflects that. I would consider starting out with Liquid Light, and then once you've gotten yourself in the groove, graduate to the better stuff so you can crank out some really fine material.
    You have analyses to show this silver difference? The reason I ask is that the same emulsion can give a different density depending on how it is made. It would be interesting to know if you have data to back up the 'silver content' because if you don't, I suspect that they might (MIGHT) be the same silver content just treated differently in the finishing operation.

    PE

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    i have had great luck with liquid light
    i have never used it on paper
    only used on glass, and it worked
    well, once i learned how to "subb it"

    john
    Hi John, I have done liquid emulsion on timber and canvas but wanted to try it on glass. Any help you can provide on how you subbed your glass would be appreciated.

    Peter
    www.thephotoshop.ie
    www.monochromemeath.com

    "you get your mouth off of my finger" Les McLean

  9. #19
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    You can sub glass with gelatin, or just coat the emulsion directly on the glass.

    The trick is to clean it well of all grease and oil, don't leave fingerprints, and harden with chrome alum.

    There are other comments and some photos of how this is done posted in the emulsion making and coating forum.

    Also, please be aware of the fact that all of these emulsions must be refrigerated, not frozen nor kept at room temperature, or they will not keep well. Also, every time you warm up the bottle to get some out, it changes slightly due to the heat cycle. That is why I store my emulsions in wide mouth containers and rather than re-heat them, I scoop out my sample with a spoon or a spatula.

    PE

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by thefizz View Post
    Hi John, I have done liquid emulsion on timber and canvas but wanted to try it on glass. Any help you can provide on how you subbed your glass would be appreciated.

    Peter
    hi peter

    i have tried to put the emulsion right on the glass as ron mentions can be done
    but i have never had any luck doing it that way.
    i have used a few different subbing compounds, from varnish and clear polyurethane to gelatin.
    the varnish and urethane yellowed after a bit, but the gel never did.
    there are a bunch of different kinds of gelatins, and as ron says,
    you can use, photograde seems to work the best
    ( i use food grade which probably isn't good ) ..
    after the gelatin is coated and dried ( i do a few coats ) you can either
    flow the emulsion on the plate, or paint it. its fun, and not too hard.
    the hardest part is cleaning the glass, so water sheets off ( no dry spots ).

    there is a great article here:

    http://www.alternativephotography.co..._dryplate.html

    good luck!

    john
    Last edited by jnanian; 03-06-2008 at 12:12 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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