comparing 120 film with 35mm
I've seen several comments in different threads about negatives being great from some particular 120 size films, as opposed to what the same film may produce in 35mm size. Why is there a difference?
There is an unmistakable difference between my 35mm negatives and 120s. I haven't been able to figure out why and bring the 120s to where I think they should be in quality, with a few exceptions. I'm thinking it has to do with my metering, because I'm not using the same metering devices between bodies. I know something I'm doing is bringing them up short... *but is there a real difference in the actual film between 35 & 120*?
I shoot both 35mm and 120 in both my favorite film is Ilford Delta 100. The film seems the same to me in both formats. Obviously the 120 gives a bigger neg so the grain is not as apparent, but I have blown up parts of a 120 and the grain looks the same when I do. It is said that there is a different base in 35mm than 120 but I can't really tell.
Oh yea I have developed 120 & 35mm in the same tank togather with great results. I also have not noticed a difference in exposure between my 35mm camera, 120 camera, and hand metering, the film reacts the same for all three.
Last edited by 23mjm; 03-13-2008 at 09:52 AM. Click to view previous post history.
>>>Obviously the 120 gives a bigger neg so the grain is not as apparent<<<
So, that explains why I find it more difficult to focus 120? Or do you mean that just in the print the grain is not as apparent?
Where are you having trouble focusing on the camera or while printing?? I use a grain focuser and I still can see enuff grain to focus. Even when using Efke25 in 120.
Both are a challenge, really. I'm slow focusing in the Hasselblad, using the split image focusing screen. I can't move nearly as fast as I'd like with it, but I meant while printing. I use a grain focuser, too, but with some films I find it difficult. (My eyes were perfect for a long time, but it's not the case now.)
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Might want to try a different grain focuser, I use this cheap plastic Peterson thing don't really like it but it works for me. One thing that might help is if you can find a line or sharp edge and use that for focusing. I find on 120 negs that areas with a constant tone are impossible to focus. I normally print 8X10.
Focusing the camera that's a tuff one for me. I shoot Mamiya's and have never shot a Hassy. I do use a 45 degree split screen. Might want to try a Brightscreen but those are spendy!!!
But other than the size of the negative, is there a difference in the same name-brand film from 35 to 120? I didn't want to hijack the other thread by asking this there, but in the "TMax 100" thread it was said, "I love T-MAX 100 in 120 size". Others have made the same comment, not necessarily about that film but of the size in whatever film.
I'm wondering, is 120 TMax 100 different from 135 TMax 100?
135mm Tmax-100 has a thicker base than 120 Tmax-100. That is true of most films. This adds more B+F density but does not change the characteristics of the film.
Originally Posted by jgcull
I only mentioned thate I like T-MAX 100 in 120 size because I don't use it in either 35mm or LF, becaue 1) I don't use 35mm format at all, and 2) the film has a UV blocking base that makes it unsuitable for printing alternative processes.
One of the Kodak films is [or was] different between 120 and 35mm. 320 speed one. I"m sure somebody will remember the name.
Slow speed 120 film is harder to focus with a grain focusser. There is just less grain to find. Just wait until you try 4x5 and grain is almost impossible to find. Some of the eastern European films have much more grain. More then I tend to like for 35mm but just fine in 120.
If you think your metering is the issue then meter the same way for both. See how that changes things.
I'm not sure what you are seeing. It seems like you're saying the 120 is worse? How are they different?
Along these lines I have not noticed much difference between the two in regards to TMX and TMY. Size only.
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