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  1. #21
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    If you have very hard water, then the ideal solution is to use tap water to mix everything but the final solution that will contact the film. That may be photo flo, any other wetting agent, stabilzer or whatever. If it is any of these or just a wash step only, then a use distilled water for mixing or as a final dip. Never dip color film into plain DW though, it must always be a stabilzer or final rinse.

    You do not need to use DW to mix any of the developers, fixers, bleaches or blixes though as they have plenty of sequestrants in them, but even so, if they form a precipitate just filter the solution and that will fix the problem.

    If you mix your own solutions from scratch in hard water, use about 10 g/l of Disodium EDTA and make sure you adjust the pH to where the solution should be. Na2EDTA should not change it, but don't take a chance.

    Hope this is enough to start you on the road.

    BTW, what do you do to keep your tea from forming scum in London? Or your beer? Actually, I enjoy a warm pint at the White Harte on Drury Lane and a good cuppa.

    PE

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post



    BTW, what do you do to keep your tea from forming scum in London? Or your beer? Actually, I enjoy a warm pint at the White Harte on Drury Lane and a good cuppa.

    PE
    P.E

    I live about 30 miles north of the city of London and my water is the most discusting stuff you could ever drink. I had a Brita water filter kettle and I even had to descale that once a week . You really could not let this stuff touch your film, let alone make a cup of tea with it. It forced me to get a Reverse Osmosis filter system fitted and I have never looked back. Not only do I get squeeky clean film time after time, it makes the perfect cup of tea and my kettle still looks like new inside .

    Best

    Stoo
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  3. #23
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    The RO unit must look pretty bad though! How often do you have to change filters?

    PE

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Miller View Post
    If you don't get drying marks when using distilled water, then why change?
    Mainly because the only reasonable source of distilled water I've found is Halfords (car parts shop for non UK people) in 5 litre bottles & they don't always have it.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    The RO unit must look pretty bad though! How often do you have to change filters?

    PE
    Yes, the three main filters do look pretty discoloured at the end of their life. There are five filters. Three of them are recommended to be changed every six months. The sediment filters should be changed every two years. These are more like capsules, so the content can not be seen. Mine must be overdue for a change.

    I must admit, I change my filters after one years use though, as I think the company do their maths assuming that the unit is being used by a family, whereas I live on my own.

    Best

    Stoo
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  6. #26
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    [QUOTE]
    Quote Originally Posted by markbb View Post
    Mainly because the only reasonable source of distilled water I've found is Halfords (car parts shop for non UK people) in 5 litre bottles & they don't always have it.[/QUOT
    Mark

    Try your local aquatic centre. Most will have a reverse osmosis unit for the fish tanks. Mine sells it for, and I am going by memory, 75p for 5ltr.

    Best

    Stoo
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  7. #27
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    I've been studying RO units for my emulsion work and have found from experience that all of them have suggested operating temperatures and pressures. If you exceed either one, you run the risk of either having it fail or having it perforate outright. The normal pressure range is about 40 - 80 PSI and the temperature range is about 65F - 85F. Look up your specific filter for the range, otherwise you will suffer from degraded performance or failure.

    Also, if the unit begins to plug or fill, it begins to fail.

    You may even begin having leaks from the RO unit itself.

    PE

  8. #28
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    P.E

    Thanks for that info. I am sure that I should be o.k. My unit is a tiny undersink thing, found here; http://www.thinkh2o.co.uk/products/aqua5.html The bottle fills from the mains. Inside is a clapsable bag. As the tank empties the bag expands and pushes the water out through the tap. It just trickles at a rate of about 1 1/2 ltr a minute. Hardly any use in a large darkroom etc, but I am sure safe enough for me. I store 15 litres and keep them to hand.

    Cheers

    Stoo
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  9. #29
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    If you want to see what I'm talking about, Spectra Pure presents some data.

    Here is just one tiny reference:

    http://www.spectrapure.com/St_replac_p3.htm#spec

    It shows you some of the various forms. There are many pages of specs and test equipment here at SP.

    PE

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by markbb View Post
    Mainly because the only reasonable source of distilled water I've found is Halfords (car parts shop for non UK people) in 5 litre bottles & they don't always have it.
    You're lucky, my Halford's don't know what distilled water is; for that reason I use a Brita jug water filter to get the junk out of my tap water. I use this to mix my developer, and for the final rinse and find this leaves my film mark free without the addition of Photoflow or similar.
    Regards Dave.

    An English Eye


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