120 Neopan in ADOX Borax MQ
Shot with a Leitz-Tiltall mounted Hasselblad 500CM with black 50mm T* Distagon:
Last edited by Nokton48; 08-30-2009 at 09:35 PM. Click to view previous post history.
I process Neopan 400 with Fuji's film developer called Super Prodol. It's a normal developer and works good for me.
Compared to TriX, Neopan can hold hightlights better. And TriX is better for producing shadow details.
Originally Posted by firecracker
I just bought some Super Prodol Developer in Japan. What developing time and temperature do you use with Presto 400? Thanks!
In 35mm format, NP400 has beautiful highlight detail compared to HP5+.
NP400 is very near the complete film, it has great shadow detail and the highlight detail is superb. If exposed and developed carefully, it is a wonderful film.
I have close to 300 rolls of NP400 in my refrigerator!
I develop it in D76 1+1 rotary.
With my system for general use, I rate it at 320 ASA, under tungsten it requires more exposure and either 250 ASA or maybe 200 ASA is about right.
FP4+ is a wonderful film which I also use a lot of, NP400 is a lot like FP4+
Neopan is my standard film in 120, so I'm pretty interested in peoples thoughts. I'm quite amazed at the different opinions, and I guess there are many different combinations of developer/agitation exposure that no two people will get the same result.
My own thoughts echo the ones of Mick Fagen, Neopan being almost the complete film. For me shadow detail better than most other films it seems to hold highlights that other films fail to.
I have had good results with it in Rodinal Microphen ID11 and Studional.
Grain in Rodinal is surprisingly fine, I think this film is a non T grain but its grain even in 35 mm is much finer than HP5 or Tri-x
Speed for me is 320-400 depending on developer.
I have 40 or so rolls and its one film I'd hate to be without.
Thea and cake: Rollei 35 Neopan 400 in Rodinal
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I got a pile of that film in 120 by Fuji for an assignment and never used it.
Always want to try, always stay with my regular, Efke25, Verichrome, Tri-X.
I guess I'm afraid to have too much options.
But I keep looking at this tread !
I've had surprisingly good results with Neopan, especially in DDX. But I use a very slow, gentle agitation (force of habit from using Rodinal) so maybe that helps with my highlights. Either way, neopan 400 through my Rolleicord is just gives me scary good prints on arista.edu ultra semi-matte and a contrast #2 filter. It's my go-to film in 120.
I have only used Neopan a handful of times, but it seems to be prone to blown out highlights and a bit high contrast in general (which may not be a bad thing depending on your personal preference). I have gotten nice results with it, but I prefer Tri-X or HP-5.
I use a 2-reel tank for 35mm film developing, and dilute the SPD to 1:1. And I develop at 20 Celsius for 7 min 30 sec, or at 23 Celsius for 6 minutes. I think I'm pushing a bit compared to the recommended chart by Fuji. What I heard is that SPD is actually for normal and pushing process, and it's kind of soft to begin with. So you might have to play with it a bit for your own taste.
Originally Posted by Nokton48
And I use the same developer three, four times (up to 6-8 rolls if I use it within a week or two), and for the third or forth time, I usually add extra 30 seconds to the developing time.
When I shoot, I usually set both Neopan and TriX at ASA 400, but I do manage to play with the exposure with the light meter in my camera. And they both give me about equal results.
You can't really compare films unless you develop them all to close to equal contrast. In the case of Neopan400, for whatever developer you tested it with, that means using a shorter dev time than you might use for other films.
Originally Posted by mikez