I would use a higher dilution of bleach, 1+9 or 1+14 so that times are in the 1 minute range (at least)
You can also selectively bleach with brush, sponge or similar.
The "stinker" is really awesome, the more you diluted the warmer the effect and the faster it acts, specially in the highlights. Since sulfide works from the hihglights to the shadows you can still get some good split with selenium.
I don't know if you can tone without bleach in that toner... I was a big fan of Viradon (old) but found that the newer one also has some charm to it, being a polysulfide only toner.
I read in another thread that you were having trouble with batch consistancy with this paper. Has this changed at all?
I use this paper extensively and the batch to batch consistency is not as good as Ilfords but ok. You'll need to make minor adjustments to print times with each new box. I have stopped trying to sepia tone this paper. Although the color and splits that can be achieved are stunningly beautiful, small dark blobs will form when the paper is put in the sepia toner after bleaching. This occurs on 50% or more of prints. I literally have to make 3-4 prints to get one blob free print after sepia toning.