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  1. #11
    Iwagoshi's Avatar
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    Neopan 400 Spec Sheet

    Quote Originally Posted by anbe View Post
    I've read almost all posts on Neopan 400 finding a lot of useful information but they are a bit confusing for a beginner like me.
    So I'm here to ask your advice: what would be a good (or the best) developer (and related time/temperature, agitation, rated EI, etc) to begin with?

    Thanks

    Andrea
    Andrea,

    I don't know whether this will help or hinder, but I am asking the same question and found the following Fuji Data & Tech Sheet for Neopan 400.
    I going to try HC110b because that's what I have on hand, but would like to get some feedback on the Fuji developers, SPD or Fujidol.

    Terry

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Bragg View Post
    Hi Andrea,

    I am finally getting Neopan 400 to do the things I want it to do. For my use it seems to work best at Ei200. I am getting some of the best negatives (in ease of printing), developing in Rodinal 1:50 for 12 minutes@ 20c with minimal agitation. (15 seconds initial, then 2 further inversions at 4 mins and 2 more at 8 mins). Examples below.

    http://www.rangefinderforum.com/phot...hp?photo=82373
    http://www.rangefinderforum.com/phot...hp?photo=82372
    http://www.rangefinderforum.com/phot...hp?photo=82748

    Good luck with Neopan. It is a wonderful film and can make some lovely tones in Rodinal.

    Regards, John.

    Same time, and dilution but @400ISO and agitating the initial 60sec + 10sec every three minutes
    kind regards
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    Technology distinquishable from magic is insufficiently developed

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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iwagoshi View Post
    Andrea,

    I don't know whether this will help or hinder, but I am asking the same question and found the following Fuji Data & Tech Sheet for Neopan 400.
    I going to try HC110b because that's what I have on hand, but would like to get some feedback on the Fuji developers, SPD or Fujidol.

    Terry
    Hi, Terry.

    I have had mixed results with HC-110 and Neopan, finally settling on Dilution H for 9 mins @ Ei200. I found dilution B (1:31), to be too contrasty with "normal" agitation.The extended time in development by doubling the dilution (1:63), and cutting agitation, cured that and gave more manageable negatives.

    Regards John.

  4. #14
    John Bragg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soeren View Post
    Same time, and dilution but @400ISO and agitating the initial 60sec + 10sec every three minutes
    kind regards
    Hi, Soren.

    Do you wet print or scan your negs ? I love the tones with this combination and I am hooked on the look. I wet print and the negs produced this way print easily with a minimum of fuss. It has surpassed my expectations of my old favorite HC-110 for sharpness....

    Regards, John

  5. #15

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    I made (and will again when I get my darkroom) wetprints. Its a hell of a job to keep them wet to avoid drydown

    Kind regards
    Send from my Electronic Data Management Device using TWOFingerTexting

    Technology distinquishable from magic is insufficiently developed

    Søren Nielsen
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  6. #16
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    I shoot a lot of NP400 in 135 format for street photography. What I have found interesting is the difference of the light available in Australia and Germany. The two places I practice that kind of photography on a regular basis.

    To add some contrast to the German light, I often use an orange filter, this can also cut through the summer haze a bit, especially if taking a scenic shot of a village ½ a kilometre away.

    I use D76 1+1 exclusively; I rate the film at 320 ASA for daylight and fluorescent and 250 ASA under tungsten lighting.

    As you use a condenser enlarger you may wish to develop the negs to the higher contrast settings given for diffused enlargers, this will bump the contrast a bit as well.

    To give you an idea of the difference, the time for NP400 in D76 1+1 is 9.75 minutes @ 20° C. You could add 10% to this time, which is 10.72 minutes, which equates to 10 minutes and 45 seconds developing time.

    It is these kinds of subtle changes, which personalise and give you what you are after.

    My personal take on NP400 in D76 @ 1+1 dilution is:- 10½ minutes at 20º C with the film exposed on my in camera meter at 320 ASA.

    You will have differences and I’m sure you will have to alter your developing regime to suit the graded paper you are using, that’s the way it is.

    Let us know how you get along.

    Mick.

  7. #17

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    FTR- here's the info sheet from Fuji Japan- the film is sold there as "Neopan Presto 400"

    http://fujifilm.jp/support/pdf/filma...sto135_001.pdf

    Development time chart is pretty straightforward, even if you don't read Japanese!

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