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  1. #1

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    film developing process having a fog on film

    I'm using D-76 I had shot 2 rolls and developed them seperatly. my water bath temp stabilize at 72 degrees after 10 to 15 minutes of sitting.

    roll 1

    1> presoak with bath water for 30 sec

    2> D-76 1:1 for 9 3/4 minutes} agitated for the 1st 30 seconds and every 30 seconds afterwards for 5 seconds.

    3> stop bath for 30 seconds with continous agitation

    4> fixer for 10 minutes } agitate for the 1st 30 seconds and every 5 secs for every minute aftwerward

    5> rinse for 1 minute

    6> hypo clear agitate for 1 minute

    7> wash for 5 minutes

    8> Photo Flo } swirl it around about 3 times and let set for 30 seconds.

    the result is a white fog that runs down the strip. also the writing on the edge of the film and frame #'s I can barely see them.

    roll #2

    same process as above except for the developer ran D-76 without mixing for the 1:1 ratio for 7 1/2 minutes

    the result a small white fog but it look like it's not running thru the entire film from top to bottom just at one end for about 3 to 5 frames. I can see the writing and frame #'s along the edge.

    could this fog be for under development. the last 4 rolls i done had this result of the 1st roll both rolls is 400TX. or do i need to readjust my time for 72 degree water, if thats the case where can i find some info on the time adjustment.

    never had problems in the past over at my brother, using 68 degree water temp.

  2. #2
    Anscojohn's Avatar
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    Does not sound at all like a fog problem and first roll sounds like it's underdeveloped. Are you sure your themometer is accurate? What you call "fog" may be sulfite scum. What is the percentage of your acid stop bath? Is it fresh? Could also be a photo flo bath that is too concentrated. I feel you have more than one problem here.

    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA
    Last edited by Anscojohn; 04-05-2008 at 12:52 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #3
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Is it along the edge of the film outside the image area? This could just be where the film is contacting the reel, and the white would be an unfixed area. It's not a problem, if this is it.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  4. #4

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    it's thru the image. I have 2 thermometer and one of them is brand new, the stop bath my brother had made before he gave me his darkroom equipment at which it's not showing any signs of being exhausted, but the photo flo not sure, because he makes it by the gallon, I had just found out a few days ago only need couple of drops in the tank with water in it. I just bought 2 more rolls of 400TX, I'll dump the stop bath out and make a fresh batch tonight.

  5. #5

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    I was wondering, with the stop bath mix for gallon, wouldn't the stop bath ned to be diluted again for a working solution, if so then whats the ratio for working solution.

  6. #6

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    The stop bath is not the most likely cause. What's the history of the fixer? Is it fresh? After 10 minutes in fix, any unexposed portions of film should be completely clear, or at worst, slightly pink if you are using a TMAX film.

  7. #7
    CBG
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    Hypo check is a good simple way to test your fixer.

    Another test is to do the process with a test clipping in bright light so you see whats going on. Clip a tiny piece from the end of a roll of film. Just an inch, and exposed to bright light so it's totally darkenable. Dipping a exposed 1 inch clip from the end of a roll of film into developer while in the light can tell you if your developer is weak or not. Following up by stopping it and fixing it in the light may show you if the whole process is working. The clip should darken to black in the developer and clear in fix.

    C

  8. #8

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    k the fixer is little under half a gallon and it's been almost a month and half since it was made. I'll just make a fresh batch of the fixer and give it a go to be safe.

  9. #9
    tiberiustibz's Avatar
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    Fix problem. Fog would be black. Dead fix leaves the halide.

  10. #10
    tiberiustibz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdial View Post
    After 10 minutes in fix, any unexposed portions of film should be completely clear, or at worst, slightly pink if you are using a TMAX film.
    What is that pink? My first TMAX film was 100 asa 4x5 and when I saw it was pink I was wierded out, but I'd seen some blue on film's bases. After washing and drying it was gone. Then I processed a second sheet and it stayed pink after washing and drying. More fix and another wash removed this. What is it?

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