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Thread: Fomapan R100

  1. #1
    AutumnJazz's Avatar
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    Fomapan R100

    Should I just shoot this at 100ISO, or will I get better results at 50 or slower speeds?

    I am still re-discovering film, so please forgive me if this is a stupid questions.

  2. #2
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    When in doubt, bracket, and record which frame is which. My general inclination with the Foma films is to give an extra stop of exposure, but I haven't used the R100, so I don't know how it will respond best.

  3. #3
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    The question isn't really answerable without knowing how you're going to process the film, and even then, it's best to run your own tests using your own system of metering and equipment.

    If you're shooting at the box speed and not getting enough shadow detail based on inspection of the negatives directly, then try increasing exposure (reduce the film speed setting on your meter).

    There are various approaches to exposure and development. I recommend Ansel Adams' book, _The Negative_.
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    I expose Fomapan R exactly the same way as Provia 100F (at 100 ISO, that is), and the exposures are good with both films. But I do my own processing of Fomapan, which might be different to anyone else's albeit I follow the instructions to the letter. You have to try it and see, as with any film you aren't familiar with.

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    frdrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb View Post
    There are various approaches to exposure and development. I recommend Ansel Adams' book, _The Negative_.
    Would a book entitled `The Negative' be useful for learning how to use Fomapan R, which is reversal film?

  6. #6
    dr5chrome's Avatar
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    R100

    R100 is designed to be a B&W positive. It is an old cine B&W emulsion with a remarkable old-style quality. We are the only official processors of this film type, on a lab level http://www.dr5.com/fomar.html .
    Foma sells a kit but it is only available in Europe. The Kodak and Formulary kit do not work very well with this film.

    It is possible to process this film as a negative. i would use pyro or D23.
    As a positive i would shoot it @ 160 normal. Do not shoot it at 50iso!
    its Ei range is 100~400 iso.

    regards

    dw

    www.blackandwhiteslide.com



    Quote Originally Posted by OverlordXenu View Post
    Should I just shoot this at 100ISO, or will I get better results at 50 or slower speeds?

    I am still re-discovering film, so please forgive me if this is a stupid questions.

  7. #7
    AutumnJazz's Avatar
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    Thanks dr5chrome. I had just been reading some confusing stuff that said shooting it at a lower ISO would produce better images.

    I'll just shoot it at 100, then.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dr5chrome View Post
    R100 is designed to be a B&W positive. It is an old cine B&W emulsion with a remarkable old-style quality. We are the only official processors of this film type, on a lab level http://www.dr5.com/fomar.html .
    Foma sells a kit but it is only available in Europe. The Kodak and Formulary kit do not work very well with this film.

    It is possible to process this film as a negative. i would use pyro or D23.
    As a positive i would shoot it @ 160 normal. Do not shoot it at 50iso!
    its Ei range is 100~400 iso.

    regards

    dw

    www.blackandwhiteslide.com
    I am desperate to learn more about processing this film as a negative. I am going to be shooting r100 in standard 8mm format and ideally I'd like to develop it as negative. Do you have developing times with pyro or D23? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks a lot.

  9. #9
    rjr
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr5chrome View Post
    It is possible to process this film as a negative.
    I am just wondering how you are going to remove the AHU backing of yellow colloid silver which will be retaines when developing the film as a negative. How do you do it?
    Tschüss,
    Roman



 

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