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  1. #11
    Anscojohn's Avatar
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    but highlights need to be just below paper white and the skin tones at about zone 8-9.

    Need a very contrasting look.

    ******
    I may have missed what lighting you intend to use. But I would take a reading off the pale skin tone. "normal" zone isabout one stop more than the reading for "normal" skin tone: for pale skin, give one and a half to two stops more than the meter reading. Then overdevelop about 25% over normal development to raise the skin value. As others have said, Rodinal might not be the best for this.
    In ye oldene dayz, some guys would do informal female portraits in 35mm in this manner: over expose tri-x a couple a stops, then soup in straight Microdol-X to give creamy white skin tones on portraits.




    I
    John, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

  2. #12

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    Gary - I don't see any problem with using Rodinal for this, if you want the grain it gives. It sounds in your last post that you are trying to make a negative that will yield what you describe on Grade 2 paper. You could probably find the right exp / dev combination to do this, but I'm still not sure why you wouldn't expose 1 - 2 stops more than normal, and develop maybe 20 - 30% longer. Then print on whatever paper grade it takes to get you the rest of the way.

    As Ansco John points out, caucasian skin is normally around Zone 6, or just above the mid-tonal point, so if you go up more than 2 or 3 stops, plus over development, you take the risk of running over the straight part of the curve, where detail flattens off. (This is a general statement that may not be true in all cases, but is probably most of the time).

    The time and work it might take to find the perfect exp / dev to give you what you want on grade 2 might not be worth it.

    Just my 2cents.

  3. #13
    Gary Holliday's Avatar
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    Unfortunately the papers I use are only made in Grade 2 so the negative is the only option. Thanks for the examples Graeme, your look is fairly similar to mine although you have the advantage of hard light and harder paper grades if necessary. It looks as if you are exposing 3 stops over on occassions and an extra 4 mins at 1+50.

    I think a lot of the Massive dev chart times have been contributed by Americans who shoot under harsh sunlight. My lights are diffused by softboxes, with a Softar I on the lens and I'm trying to print on G2...no wonder I'm not getting suitable results.

    I'll have a go at 2.5-3 stops over, increasing concentration to 1+25 or 1+20. I will try developing for 1-2 mins under the ISO 100 time.

    I've just been checking the pdf documents and Rollei Retro film and APX 100 have very different dev times. So I'll need to do further testing afterall.
    Last edited by Gary Holliday; 05-01-2008 at 10:10 AM. Click to view previous post history.

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