it must. Isn't Windisch catechol basically pyrocatechin and NaOH like AM50?
It is and just checking the formula in Adams' _The Negative_, it's recommended as a compensating developer to reduce the EI by 50% for good shadow detail while reducing highlight density, which would fit Puts' curve for TMY2 exposed at EI 400.
Yes, I know ID-11 and D-76 is the same, I figured since Erwin was WAY over there he'd have more easy access to ID-11 than the American Gold Bag of D-76.
I still think its an odd choice for a review of a new emulsion.
Interesting article but as Erwin's last sentence says( reading between the lines): "Nice try Kodak but you've wasted your time. Oh and it's APUG R.I.P. or as good as. So it's the usual depressing stuff.
I'll just have to carry on regardless. The wagons are circled, the end is near and Big John or Ward is saying: " Each man, keep the last two bullets for your woman and then yourself "
Chivalry was the sworn enemy of women's lib and the cavalry's bugle it's ultimate saviour - discuss
I found several sites that describe AM50 is being speed reducing, so Erwin's figures make sense. But since the resulting speed is not much better than a 125 speed film, it doesn't make sense to me to use AM50 with a 400 speed film for 35mm use.
FP4+ in Microphen would probably be faster.
AM50 is also described as non-staining, which is interesting for a catechol developer. It is supposed to be very sharp, though.
Is the B+F that Erwin measured (0.23) unusual? I thought that that was about normal for 35mm film.
You can make a pyro developer non-staining by increasing the sulfite, which could also smooth out the grain, depending on the final dilution. If you reduce the sulfite enough, it's possible to make a staining developer out of hydroquinone, but I've never tried it.
You can substitute hydroquinone for catechol in the Pyrocat formulas. The color will be different, more toward the red than either catechol or pyrogallol, but cheaper to practise with. It's just as soluble in glycol. If you don't like the stain, you can add a bunch of sulfite
At least I know what developer not to use for this film. I'm not sure what he means by a "true 400 speed film", but he is correct saying that to get any shadow detail you better drop the film speed... to about 150 according to those numbers.