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  1. #121
    df cardwell's Avatar
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    E-20 test


    E-20 & Tri X 35mm ?

    Very cool. Can't wait.

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrickjames View Post
    I just tried mixing up an Edwal 20 type in these non scientific amounts-

    This is for 1.5 liters so keep that in mind...and this is not in the amounts given on the internet or in the FDC by Anchell.

    pinch of metaborate to preserve the P-aminophenol while mixing
    10g P-aminophenol
    135g SS
    10g Boric Acid
    15g PPD
    10g Borax
    10g Glycin
    20g of Sodium Hydroxide (needed to be added for the Glycin to go into solution. It went into solution at 140º F, but came back out when it cooled so I added the hydroxide.)


    The Borax/boric acid combo hopefully will act as a buffer since I read somewhere the developer is sensitive to Ph. I haven't really tested it fully yet. It has been really hot here so the one roll I ran after seasoning it (with 3 rolls 35mm) was a little overdeveloped at 7min @ 25º F. (APX 100). So far it looks like it holds the film speed really well. I have a bunch of film to process from a recent trip, and I will post some of the results afterwards.

    If anyone has any comments on the above formula let me know. I would love to hear opinions from others.

    I haven't mixed up E-12 yet, but I have always had an affinity for p-aminophenol so I thought I would try E-20 first.

    Patrick
    I had problems with chemical fog with this developer as it was mixed on most films, strangely enough not on APX 100. It is an interesting developer after I added some KBr to get rid of the fog. The standout quality is the grain. Oodles and oodles of it, probably due to the pH since I added the hydroxide. Here is a shot on Fortepan 400, which is a terrible film, but it shows the grain I am talking about.




    I am going to try E12 next.
    Last edited by patrickjames; 10-23-2008 at 05:43 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #123
    bowzart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrickjames View Post
    I had problems with chemical fog with this developer as it was mixed on most films, strangely enough not on APX 100. It is an interesting developer after I added some KBr to get rid of the fog. The standout quality is the grain. Oodles and oodles of it, probably due to the pH since I added the hydroxide. Here is a shot on Fortepan 400, which is a terrible film, but it shows the grain I am talking about.




    I am going to try E12 next.
    Whatever you did, E20 should not give this result.

    I've been using E12 with Eastman XX cine film and now FP4 - with results I consider to be close to otherworldly. I'm using great optics (Leica, and my Voightlander 40mm Nokton SC), and the film is holding and revealing every bit of the the resolution and local contrast with hardly any visible grain in full frame 8x10 (roughly 6x9 inches). Spectacular.

    E20 is supposed to give even finer grain, which seems to me to be a ridiculous idea fit only for people who are permanently installed in their white lab coats.

    E12 is quite amazing. I'm sold.

    L.

  4. #124
    df cardwell's Avatar
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    Hi Patrick

    According to Lowe's formula,
    there is no Borax, no Sodium Hydroxide,
    no Boric Acid, etc.

    Lowe claimed that E20 worked because of the energizing effect of PPD on Glycin and P-aminophenol. Normally these developers are used at pH 10 and higher, while PPD allowed them to fully develop film at pH 7.5 or less (see the patent information for the exact number).

    I have no idea what was the contribution of the Borax / Boric Acid, although I think you were trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist.

    As for adding the Sodium Hydroxide, I think the effect was a bit like dropping a space heater into the bath tub.

    I think E12 (with 2 grams of glycin) is a more practical developer for 21st century purposes, the only drawback being that we little practical experience with Lowe's developers and form our ideology based on third-hand accounts of writers who have never used them.

  5. #125

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    I used E 20 in the 60s with Tri X, looks nothing like your prints, mine very fine with even gain. I dont have a scanner hooked up to my email so I cant dig any out to post, but something is very wrong.

  6. #126
    patrickjames's Avatar
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    As an answer to the above- I didn't have the formula for E 20 when I mixed this developer (which is why I stated it was an E 20 type developer) so I just did it with half ass guesstimates. The Boric Acid/Borax I thought would perhaps buffer the developer so I added it. The goal was to make it replenishable ad infinitum. Adding the hydroxide wasn't such a great idea with what I know now but it was a spur of the moment thing. Live and learn!

    The reason I why I posted the results from this developer is because I thought someone might find it interesting. The grain is beautiful in its own way, but the appearance of it in the image I posted is minimized since I resized it. There is actually far more grain.

    I just went to mix up E 12 but found I didn't have enough chemistry, so I said what the hell and just mixed up a two part version. I will share the results if it works out. The first roll I put through it shows some promise, although it was underdeveloped.

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