New film/developer times and dilution???
I could use some help with finding the correct time and dilution for a new to me film (Adox Ortho 25) I'm using with my standard 100/400 film developer.
From clip tests it seems that at the stock solution @ 8 minutes seems to give nice highlights, but way too much contrast, losing shadows in a big way.
Another test showed more manageable contrast at 1:1 and 16 minutes, with nice density, though I haven't yet printed any. Contrast looks to be pretty high still.
Would a higher energy developer like Dektol at various dilutions enhance or subdue the contrast? I do remember doing B&W transparencies on lith film in Dektol & the more dilute, the softer the contrast. Would this film behave in a similar manner to lith film?
If you already have too much contrast you definitely do not want to use any paper developer. They produce more contrast than most film developers. You might try reducing the development time in 1:1 by about 25%. In other words, try 12 minutes in 1:1.
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I am wondering exactly the same thing myself. I have been given a gallon bag of Dektol and the possibility of high dilution and lower pH (metabisulfite or boric acid) occurred to me.
Glycin as an additive @ 11g/L makes it into a close relative of Ansco 130 and EFKE 25 in 1:20 for 10m / 22C has been sugested by Tom Hoskinson.
Certainly well worth a try?
Are you contact printing the test negs or eyeballing them ?
If a contact print is giving you the feedback, good.
You have a classic problem. There is a classic solution.
Try a second bath of 10% borax or kodalk, effectively making D76 a two bath process.
Develop in D76, using 75% of your best 'shadow' time.
(straight, or 1+1, test and see)
Drain the film, don't rinse, and develop 3' in the Borax solution.
This is just a variation of Ansel's 2 bath D23 (which is functionally D76, anyhow).
Barry Thornton talked about this technique,
and there is a nicely coherent explanation of what to do:
If you can't get it with the D76-2 bath,
you might Rodinal 1+200
or any of the developers worked out for Tech Pan.
But it might be easier to just accept what the film is giving you,
use a softer paper, and and develop your prints in Selectol Soft / 120.
It is a fine film, but not designed for normal imaging.
It wants to have a steep curve, and there isn't much
you can do to change it without crippling it !
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I'm just eyeballing the negs, but they're WAY different than what I normally get.
So does the borax bath reduce the highlights or enhance the shadows? Guessing from "use 75% of your best shadow time", I'd say enhance the shadows??? This may be an idea too complex for my simple understanding, but easy enough to try....thanks!
Read the Thornton.
Development completes quickly in the B bath.
The highlights restrain themselves while the shadows develop.
So, you get more shadows, while holding the highlights in place.
HOW much is up to the film.
LET THE PRINT TELL YOU !
I've been using Rollei Ortho25 and recently purchased a couple of rolls of the Adox Ortho 25 for comparison. Of course the Rollei film came out beautifully, and I processed in Rodinal 1:50 for 10min @ 20˚. This is my same "recipe" for Efke 25 and Efke 100.
Originally Posted by jolefler
So I'll be using the same "recipe" for the Adox and expect it to come out just as well.
I print on Vaycon Fotokemika and Fomatone (both fibers). Printing Omega D5 Dichroic head. Never a problem with settings after eyeballing the neg.
If the lens doesn't read "ZEISS", then it just isn't.