how-to semi-stand (and not fall over)
I've been reading some of the threads on semi-stand developing. There are alot of them, so I might have missed the most pertinent.
I shot triX 120 yesterday at the muster for a parade. Sunny with a light haze, mid-day.
I want to try semi-stand development, and just want to check I've got the right idea.
agitate for the first minute
invert gently every 3-5 minutes
fix after 30 minutes
The thing I am most perplexed about is how long to develop. Would 60 minutes be better? Or does it not matter, as the developer will be exhausted anyway by 30?
thanks in advance for any help
Well, possibly even a bit longer in between agitations. Say 8 minutes and then you give it a good (i.e. not so gentle) agitation. The time is not that crucial as you seem to have noticed, but an hour is to strech it.
But there are many threads and opinions about this subject. Unless other chimes in, do a quick search in this forum and do also check the info at http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Pyrocat/pyrocat.html where there's quite a bit written about semi-stand and Pyrocat developers. (Same principle, just another developer...)
Last edited by edtbjon; 05-19-2008 at 10:44 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: corrected the link...
I personally call this type of agitation "minimal" rather than semi-stand.
Originally Posted by sly
If you already know how long to develop with the 1:100 dilution and normal agitation, just increase development time by about 35% with minimal agitation.
Scott Killian does full stand development of 120 film in Rodinal and gets fabulous results. He lets them sit for an hour. I don't know what dilution he uses, however. You might want to try contacting him at email@example.com
You don't mention the type of tank you are using. I have tried Tri-x 120 with Rodinal in many degrees of partial stand to no agitation after the first minute or two and have never had a roll without some kind of surge effects (some areas near the outside, top of the reel) that develop more than the internal areas. It's never consistent, and some frames are ok. I got similar results with Pyrocat HD and MC. I finally abandoned this and went back to HC-110, normal agitation. 4x5 and 35mm are fine, just 120.
I use stainless steel reels, one an old Nikkor and one a newer British brand, I forget the name.
I would be most interested in your results. I wish I could make this combination work.
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Agitation at 5 minute intervals will make your density on a 120 film even.
10 minute intervals, most of the time you'll get uneven density.
I concur with Sandy, 5 minutes is safe, and gives you all the practical advantage of an hour's stand,
with none of the risk.
Rodinal - just sitting there for 100 years !
I did a number of rolls of Agfa B&W films a couple of years ago in 120 and 35mm with 1+100 Rodinal and stand development. Full stand sometimes got some streaking or uneven development, but not every time. I was able to get even development with agitation at least once every 10 minutes. There seems to be a lot of individual variation with different agitation routines, films, developers, dilution rates, probably with the water used, etc. The best thing to do is test for your personal conditions and procedures.
You also won't go at all wrong listening to don (df cardwell) and Sandy.
I developed a roll of Delta 100 (120) yesterday - 1:100 gentle agitation for 10s every minute for 3 minutes, 1 gentle agitation at 30 min, total time 1 hour. Negs appear even and very printable, will know more when actually have time to print!
I've not seen huge differences after 45 minutes or so. You're COUNTING on exhaustion at the film surface
Well, I developed the film. Taking into consideration the advice written here I:
presoaked a couple of minutes
Rodinal 1:100 - full (Nikkor) tank
agitated for the first minute
gentle inversion or 2 every 10 minutes
60 minutes in the developer
fixed, etc as usual
the negatives look OK, no apparent surge marks. They are contrasty (high noon on a sunny day after all), but have detail in the shadows and the highlights and will be printable I think.
Negatives currently drying, so I'll make some prints as soon as I can.