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  1. #11
    rwyoung's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Philippe Grunchec View Post
    Would you agree if we called it 'modern calotype''?
    Not really and here is why. A "calotype" is done using Talbot's method & formula for sensitizing the paper, etc. A "moden calotype", in my opinion, would be a calotype done with modern materials. The modern materials in this case would be watercolor papers with factory sizing (not necessarily gelatin based) and the raw chemical stock production having benefited from the industrial revolution and higher purity. Otherwise it is a calotype and all you would have done to make it "modern" is convert Talbot's grains into grams and drams into ml.

    Using the Ilford MGIV to make the negative it is just a paper negative. Browse around over at http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/www.f295.org (mostly pinhole cameras but lots and lots of examples made with B&W paper as the "film").

    If you are wanting the calotype look then make a calotype but you won't get that somewhat painterly look from Ilford MGIV paper without some manipulation.

    You might come close to the look if you try printing the RC paper negative as a salt-print on some toothy paper. Or a cyanotype and then do a bleach & stain to get the brown look. Although, technically, a calotype is the negative only, not the final positive. The positives made were probably salt-prints or maybe albumen (late in its reign, before the calotype fell to the wayside).

    All that said, personally, I use graded RC paper for paper negatives (pinhole cameras) with some pre-flashing. Generally get bit more normal contrast and tonal range that way. But you can try sticking a #0 printing filter behind the lens/pinhole to control the MGIV paper a little bit. If you are using a lens, then a #8 yellow in front is fine but put a filter in front of a pinhole and you get to see how clean your filter is...
    Last edited by rwyoung; 06-13-2008 at 02:01 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: it is f295.ORG, not f295.NET! Whoops. And clarification of what is a calotype.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things! http://rwyoung.wordpress.com

  2. #12
    rwyoung's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Corneau View Post
    Could you not use the Efke positive paper for this?

    Been meaning to buy some and try, after reading another thread here on that product.
    There is a thread around here, another over at LF and a couple at www.f295.org.

    I think Joe VanCleve (did I spell that right Joe?) posts here and at f295 and I can remember he did some testing of the Efke stuff. As did a few other people. Pretty contrasty stuff.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things! http://rwyoung.wordpress.com

  3. #13

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    calotype

    I just took a workshop at the f/295 symposium where we made calotype negs
    we made them on Bienfang 360 paper..
    Best, Peter

  4. #14
    rwyoung's Avatar
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    Yeah, that was run by what's-his-name the "Primitive Photography" guy. Sounds like fun! Salt-printing and albumen printing are fun so adding a calotype (wet or dry) would just be fun on top of fun!

    Everything old is new again.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things! http://rwyoung.wordpress.com

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