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  1. #1
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    I've been looking at what chemicals I need to make my own developer, stop, fix, and hypo-clear and I've come up with these:

    Hypo Clearing Agent
    Water (125º F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 ml
    Sodium Sulfite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 g
    Sodium bisulfite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 g
    Water to make . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 liter

    Dilute 1:9 for use.


    Pyrocat-HD
    Stock Solution A
    Distilled Water (125 degrees F) . . . . . . . . 75 ml
    Sodium Bisulfite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 g
    Pyrocatechin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 g
    Phenidone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 g
    Potassium Bromide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 g
    Water to make . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 ml

    Stock Solution B
    Distilled Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 ml
    Potassium Carbonate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 g

    To make a standard working solution, mix 1 part A with 1 part B with 100 ml water.

    TF-2 Alkaline Fixer
    Water.........................................1000 ml
    Sodium Thiosulfate................250 g
    Sodium Sulfite (anhy)............15 g
    Sodium Metaborate................10 g
    Water to make...........................1000 ml
    Fix the film for three times the clearing time, usually 3 to 5 minutes. Follow with a two minute wash in running water for film. A hypo clearing agent is not required. Prints should be rinsed for at least 30 minutes in running water.


    Stop Bath
    A small spoonful of ctirc acid in a liter of water


    This is what I've been able to gather from personal emails, these forums, and various websites. Any suggestions or corrections?
    Also, will the hypo clear not be needed due to using the TF-2 fixer or does it still reduce the wash times?

    Jeremy

  2. #2

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    TF2 is still using Sodium Thiosulfate and as such will benefit from HCA. You may be confusing the TF2 with Formulary's TF4 formula.
    Art is a step from what is obvious and well-known toward what is arcane and concealed.

    Visit my website at http://www.donaldmillerphotography.com

  3. #3
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    I thought something was off about that as the lack of a need for hypo clear was the reason for using TF4--or at least that was what my memory told me.

    This was just info I had gotten from one website and this is the reason I'm asking.
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  4. #4
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    Also, are there anysuggestions of quantities of products to buy based on their life expectancy or is this not a problem with the individual ingredients, only the stock and working solutions?

    Sorry to have so many questions on this subject, but I've never worked with any chemicals other than those that say "Dilute this to so much water" or Dektol
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  5. #5
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    another addition:

    is there a difference between sodium bisulfite and sodium metabisulfite?
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Moore
    another addition:

    is there a difference between sodium bisulfite and sodium metabisulfite?
    They are different chemical formulas, but I think they are interchangable (from what I remember in the Darkroom Cookbook, or maybe Film Developing Cookbook by Anchell).
    Nobody ever went broke underestimating the intelligence of the American public.

  7. #7

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    TF-2 is akaline just like TF-4 or TF-3. I thought that was the reason for the lack of HCA. The stuff lasts forever. I throw it out and the fixer will still be fixing film in the same time periods that it did when new. But will have started to yellow so out it goes.

    Buy a big bag of Sodium sulfite [say 10lbs. ] Everything uses it. The other stuff is more related to how much you use it. Check ebay for a seller called something like surebet2. His 10lb specials are pretty good.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Moore
    Also, are there anysuggestions of quantities of products to buy based on their life expectancy or is this not a problem with the individual ingredients, only the stock and working solutions?

    Sorry to have so many questions on this subject, but I've never worked with any chemicals other than those that say "Dilute this to so much water" or Dektol
    Depends on your storage conditions and all, and how much chemicals you use.... sometimes, when you buy chemicals, they simply come in sealed plastic bags, which may be harder to store once you open them up. I prefer glass or plastic bottles, but you don't always get these from photo chemical places unless you buy more than say 100 or 200 grams worth.

    The shelf life of each chemical varies, unfortunately I don't have any info on my at the moment for the different parts of Pyrocat-HD, fixer, etc.

    Make sure you buy enough to mix several solutions of stock solution, that way you have more in case you mess up and it gives you enough to test with. Also, chemicals are usually get cheaper per gram when you buy more.
    Nobody ever went broke underestimating the intelligence of the American public.

  9. #9

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    Jeremy,
    You ask some very good and pertinent questions. As others have suggested, it depends greatly on the amount of film developing and printing that you do.

    When I started mixing my own chemistry, I worked it backwards from the amount of chemical per litre of use solution. Most everything (individual chemicals) has a good shelf life if kept in sealed containers. It is primarily when use solutions are prepared that oxidation occurs.

    If you are planning on Pyrocat HD, as it appears, then I found that I substituted Sodium Carbonate for Potassium Carbonate since I already had it on hand for other uses. I spoke with Sandy King prior to doing this. The only change is I mix it in five times the amount of water for the stock solution. I then change the mix to 1-5-100. The reason is that Sodium Carbonate reaches solution saturation much more rapidly then Potassium Carbonate. It just makes my life easier to eliminate different chemicals where I can.

    I understand that Michael Smith is still printing with a large quantity of Amidol that he bought a number of years ago.

    I have bought from both Photographers Formulary and Artcraft Chemicals and I prefer the latter for reasons of service and price.

    It is my understanding that in regard to TF4 which is a proprietary Photographers Formulary formula the issue is one of a stop bath, not of HCA. Due to the fact that it is alkaline it requires no stop bath since the developer is alkaline and to transfer an alkaline developer into an acid fix is to neutralize the fix and shorten it's useful life.

    The issue with HCA and thiosulfate based fixers is that the thiosulfate compound is difficult to wash from fiber based prints and the HCA converts the thiosulfate compound to a more readily removal compound. I believe that I am correct in this. If not I am sure that someone will step up and straighten us both out.
    Art is a step from what is obvious and well-known toward what is arcane and concealed.

    Visit my website at http://www.donaldmillerphotography.com

  10. #10
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    Like I said, I really have no idea about the HCA, it was just what it said on Jack's chemical website... I just asked because everything else he says fits right in with all of my other info except for that one part.

    It looks like I'll also be using Sodium Carbonate instead of potassium just from the fact that it takes less and is cheaper

    My so-called final shopping list comes out to be in alphabetcal order:

    Catechol: 250 g
    Phenidone: 50 g
    Potassium Bromide: 250 g (this should last a long time!)
    Sodium Carbonate: 1 lb
    Sodium Metabisulfite: 1 lb
    Sodium Metaborate: 1 lb
    Sodium Sulfite: 5 lb
    Sodium Thiosulfate: 5 lb

    This will be my first chemical order and am therefore starting from scratch. If anyone has any suggestions on different chemicals, different amounts, or additional chemicals let me know. The total cost including shipping comes up to be $93 and I'm hoping this will last me quite a while before having to re-stock up.

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