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  1. #11

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    If I want a fine grain result, I use a fine grain fillm.

    As I said earlier in this thread, I shoot TMax 100 and Acros on a tripod and develop in Pyrocat-MC.

    If I'm shooting my Mamiya 7 II hand held, I shoot Kodak TMY 400 or Fuji Neopan 400 and develop it in Pyrocat-MC. The acutance is high, the tonality is great and the grain is not super fine, but is acceptable to me.

    Crawley's FX-2 works well with Efke 25 (but then, so does Pyrocat-MC and Pyrocat -HD).
    Tom Hoskinson
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  2. #12
    mrtoml's Avatar
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    I hope the rangefinder alignment isn't out. The camera is brand new.

    On the subject of grain. I don't mind a little grain and didn't expect to see much with a 400 speed film on 6x7 anyway at 11x14. I just stuck with my previous (fine grain) developer which I like in 400ISO/35mm and wondered whether this might be the reason the prints from the 400 speed film in the M7 don't appear to my eyes to be fantastically sharp. A little grain sometimes gives the appearance of sharpness, does it not? I am thinking that maybe I don't need a fine grain developer like aculux for MF and maybe a high definition film developer might be better for my tastes (like perceptol).
    Mark Tomlinson
    Currently using Bronica RF645+65mm, Leica M6, Bessa R2a, Nokton LTM 50/1.5, Zeiss Biogon ZM 35/2.8, Nikon 35mm SLRs.
    Join the lith printing forum at http://www.lithprinting.net/

  3. #13

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    I am thinking that maybe I don't need a fine grain developer like aculux for MF and maybe a high definition film developer might be better for my tastes (like perceptol).[/QUOTE]

    Perceptol or Microdol X are not high definition developers, when used at stock solution they are fine gain developers, but when the sulfide is diluted the grain desloving aspect is reduced which gives somewhat higher definiton. But they are not true high definition developers. I think Illford sells Perceptol in quart kits. You also may want to try Dixactol Thortons 2 bath developer, I found it to be very sharp, but somewhat gainey for my tast, at least in 35mm.

  4. #14
    craigclu's Avatar
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    I once resurrected a darkroom in a local high school. The equipment was all decent (Beseler 45's with various heads and good, 6 element German optics). Initial results left me underwhelmed with flat, dull prints and in tracing the problem, I found that an almost imperceptible haze in all of the lenses were the cause. It surprised me how little hazing it took to degrade the image. I brought some optics from home and this perked up the prints. You may find a similar result and change with your new enlarger lens. Hopefully, it can be that simple!
    Craig Schroeder

  5. #15
    mrtoml's Avatar
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    Thanks for all your replies. I have developed a new set of hp5 negs in a different developer for comparison. My new enlarger lens is arriving tomorrow so I can also compare that. Hopefully this will at least eliminate some variables even if it is not solved.
    Mark Tomlinson
    Currently using Bronica RF645+65mm, Leica M6, Bessa R2a, Nokton LTM 50/1.5, Zeiss Biogon ZM 35/2.8, Nikon 35mm SLRs.
    Join the lith printing forum at http://www.lithprinting.net/

  6. #16
    John Bragg's Avatar
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    Hi, Mark. Try Rodinal with your Tri-X. 1:50 dilution with minimal agitation should make bitingly sharp negs with crisp grain.

    John.

  7. #17

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    Hello Mark,

    I have tried a variety of films and developers over the years and am currently using HP5+ in 35mm and 120, and have recentlly hit on a developer that is as sharp as Rodinal but with finer grain, lovely tonality and great control over highlights. I am really pleased with this developer/ film combination - bitingly sharp prints with a hint of grit from 120 negatives, and sharp prints with visible but not obtrusive grain from 35mm negatives.
    The name of this magic bullet? ID11 1+3, believe it or not.

    Film taken in bright but no sun conditions gets 20 minutes. Film exposed in full sun (yes we do get it in Yorkshire) gets 15 minutes.At 20 degrees C . Film rated at 200 This yields negatives that are very easy to print, usually on grade 2.

    Alan Clark

  8. #18
    mrtoml's Avatar
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    It was the developer I think

    I think I have solved the issue. I developed another 2 rolls of HP5 and 1 roll of Delta 3200 in a more middle of the road developer (LC29, it's all I had to hand). The prints are now nice and sharp to my eyes and I am very pleased with them. They have that extra pop that I feel MF prints should have, but are still pretty grain free. So I think I will stick to Aculux for the 35mm negatives and maybe the 120 Delta 3200 and use LC29 for other MF negatives.
    Mark Tomlinson
    Currently using Bronica RF645+65mm, Leica M6, Bessa R2a, Nokton LTM 50/1.5, Zeiss Biogon ZM 35/2.8, Nikon 35mm SLRs.
    Join the lith printing forum at http://www.lithprinting.net/

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