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  1. #1
    blansky's Avatar
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    I'm wondering what everyone is using and what their tips are for interesting toning techniques.


    A couple of mine:

    For warm brown tone; all fiber based.

    Bergger WT developed in LDP 1:6, selenuim toned 1:9 for about 5 min.

    Ilford WT developed in LDP 1:6, selenuim toned 1:9 for about 6-7 min slightly purple/eggplant warm tone

    Ilford WT dev in Zonal Pro Warm Tone 1:10, selenuim toned about 8 min very nice warm tone.

    I prefer selenium to sepia because of the single process. My sepia seem to go a little yellowy brown for my taste, although I've gotten some interesting ones

    Forte poly wt in Kodakalith for interesting slightly pinkish warmtone look.

    I'm still doing a lot of experimenting with this and shoot only portraits so some of the partial toning techniques don't work too well because the face will get pretty mucked up.

    Michael McBlane

  2. #2
    Ole
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    I'll give anything a go...

    The best warmtones I get without toning, just develop warmtone paper in Gevaert G262. Selenium toning will (usually) make it even warmer.

    Plasticky paper gets a dunk in Viradon - at least as long as the weather lets me do it outdoors.

    Colorvir toners are nice too - especially the Titanium Yellow. The iron blue tends to give either no response at all or immeiate bright blue - with the limited number of papers I've tried. I haven't tried the dyes for many years.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  3. #3
    Silverpixels5's Avatar
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    I only use to toners either alone or a combination of the two: Selenium and Sepia. I like selenium at a 1:3 dilution on Oriental Seagull and Agfa MC Classic for a very pleasing cool tone. Sepia works well for Ilford Warmtone...this paper also responds the best to dual toning.
    RL Foley

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by blansky
    My sepia seem to go a little yellowy brown for my taste, although I've gotten some interesting ones

    Michael McBlane
    Have a try of some direct toning with Viradon. You can control the level of 'brownness' by time in the toner and they (highlights) don't go yellow like sepia, more a neutral fawny colour (for want of a better description!)

    I don't tone much, but then i don't produce many completed prints... I've just got lots of work prints

  5. #5
    Jeremy's Avatar
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    same here nige!
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

    blog
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  6. #6

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    I mostly get the image color I want using a warm tone paper and warm tone developer combination. I spent a couple of weeks testing a number of paper and developer combinations, the results can be found here:

    http://home.pacbell.net/mkirwan/Resources.htm

    Click the link to the PDF file..its about 1.5 MB so it might take a little time to download.

    Mike

  7. #7
    Aggie's Avatar
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  8. #8

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    My favorite is still the discontinued Kodak Polytoner. This gives a slightly brown/purplish tint. I don't care for the true brown given by Kodak's Brown toner or Viradon. Although Viradon is my second choice depending on subject and paper.

  9. #9
    Ole
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeK
    I mostly get the image color I want using a warm tone paper and warm tone developer combination. I spent a couple of weeks testing a number of paper and developer combinations, the results can be found here:

    http://home.pacbell.net/mkirwan/Resources.htm

    Click the link to the PDF file..its about 1.5 MB so it might take a little time to download.

    Mike
    MIke, I finally had the time (and bandwidth) to look at your test results. Great work, and really well presented. Thanks a lot!

    Have you tested G262 at other dilutions than 1:2? I use it at anything up to 1:10 at various stages at exhaustion to get a "pseudo-lith" effect with developing times running up to ten minutes... The colour differences are amazing!
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  10. #10
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    Wow Mike - great work on the pdf there - it is a keeper

    I am really a fan of selenium toning. I like to pull them just as the color changes - on Forte FB mostly. This gives a nice 2 tone effect -subtle and slightly understated. - If I really want brown, I selenuim tone (all 1:9) as described and then use pot feri to bleach it back. That gives me a brown brown look and really makes the highlights sparkle. It is good for prints that need a boost and if the highlights will permit it.
    My photos are always without all that distracting color ...

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