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Thread: Pyro and FP4

  1. #31

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    I checked this morning and the negs have dried a light pinky tan colour.
    My subject was some White Lilies. tungsten lit with a black background. As expected the black background is almost clear and very pink yet the flowers are various shades of tan/pinky grey. Can any of you Pyrocat users can you confirm if this is normal? I will be printing these on Thursday and I guess this will highlight any major problems.

    Phill
    It is not tradition that secures the survival of our craft, its the craft that secures the survival of our traditions.

  2. #32

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    Hi Phil. I have never had a pinkish cast or stain on any of my negatives developed in Pyrocat HD (about 70 sheets of 8x10) in both 2:2:100 and 1:1:100 dilutions. I too use BTZS tubes.
    Francesco

  3. #33

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    Francesco
    What tint/colour is your base after dev in Pyrocat-HD? My film was FP4
    Phill
    It is not tradition that secures the survival of our craft, its the craft that secures the survival of our traditions.

  4. #34

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    With FP4 I got a brownish tint to the negative. Same with Efke PL100 and Classic 200.
    Francesco

  5. #35

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    Phill,

    I have not had a pink stain with FP4. It almost sounds to me as if the pink stain is possibly some of the antihalation coating that has not been removed in process. Do you presoak your film prior to developer?

    I assume that you are using the Pyrocat at 1-1-100 dilution. Did you purchase the Pyrocat as a kit or did you mix your own chemicals? I don't know about Francesco but I mix my own chemicals that may be another difference in our procedures.

    Depending on the intensity of the pink stain, it may have the effect of slightly increasing contrast on your negatives.

  6. #36
    Ole
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    I get no obviously visible stain on my negatives, but it is very obvious when printing. Unfiltered on multigrade paper prints like grade 00, on graded paper the same negative is very, very hard - should be printed on grade 00, or lith-developed.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
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  7. #37

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    Don

    In my rush to get developing I did not presoak (old habits die hard) but I will redevelop the duplicate shots tonight and presoak to see if this makes the difference. I used 1-1-100 which was mixed from raw materials.

    I wash my Negs in HCA which usually removes the Anti-halation layer after developing in the BTZS tubes. Is the presoak required to remove the AHL before 'pyroing' or just as a method of even developer distribution?

    Phill
    It is not tradition that secures the survival of our craft, its the craft that secures the survival of our traditions.

  8. #38

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    Phil, I buy my kit from Lotus View Camera in Austria. They come in liquid form in very attractive plastic bottles. When mixed together with distilled water the working solution turns yellow (others have gotten a pink colour in their working solution). I presoak for 5 minutes and always use fresh fixer. The brownish stain is quite obvious.
    Francesco

  9. #39

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    The pink/magenta color has nothing to do with stain from the developer. It is the antihalation backing which has not been completely removed. This is something that one sees with certain films when using rotary processsing such as BTZS tubes or expert drums because the back of the film does not receive as much chemical movement as with other forms of development. The solution is to take the film out of the tube for fixing and you may need to extend the time in the fix.

    I don't know how to explain FP4+. I have some boxes of this film that clear with no pink color at all with normal processing, and other boxes that keep the pink cast unless I fix for 2-3 times as long, and extend washing times as well. Obviously all FP4+ film is not alike at least in terms of the antihalation backing.

  10. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by Francesco
    When mixed together with distilled water the working solution turns yellow (others have gotten a pink colour in their working solution). I presoak for 5 minutes and always use fresh fixer. The brownish stain is quite obvious.
    Francesco, Sandy
    I bought the raw materials from artcraftchemicals in US and mixed according to Sandys instructions. However when the 2 chems A+B are mixed in distilled water they are still clear with no noticable colour shift. Should I see a yellow tinge?

    I am happy with the negs as they show good highliht detail and contrast and will print them tomorrow but just wanted to know what was normal with Pyrocat with other users. I get concerned when everyone speaks of the brown staining and I get pink. The fixer solution was fresh as was the HCA afterwards but I did not presoak the negs.

    Phill
    It is not tradition that secures the survival of our craft, its the craft that secures the survival of our traditions.

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