@Ed - Stop bath = pure simple water.... no acid solution
@Photo E - The film was pre-wetted in another tank...
In the OP, I believe you said you had black spots on the negatives. This is not indicative of air bubbles, but rather some contaminant in the developer itself, or something on the film from the water that causes black spots.
Sorry, but I misquoted. Here is what I am referring to "air bubbles create black spots on negativs as i know". Air bubbles cause the white spots, not black spots and that is the comment that caused confusion with me. The white spots ARE probably air bubbles. Air bubbles don't cause black spots as he stated, and he thereby seemed to eliminate them as the cause of the problem.
I too, think the clear spots are caused by air bubbles - I always tap the film developing vessel on the bench or counter to dislodge them, I thought everyone did this as common practice.
Paul
__________________ "Pictures are not incidental frills to a text; they are essences of our distinctive way of knowing." S. J. Gould
I can also relate to this. If it's along the rebate (edge) of the film, air bubbles get caught by the film spool so that no developer gets to that area. So when you fix your film, it will clear in those areas.
You can help to remove these air bubbles by rapping the tank against a hard surface (preferably with a towel between to prevent damage on the tank or the surface) several times each time you agitate. Or, if you're using some other kind of tank (I'm not familiar with the Pentacon), agitate so that you dis-lodge those air bubbles.
I have had this problem on occasion.
- Thomas
__________________
------------------------------------------------------ Photographing my soul! = = = = Please visit my APUG Portfolio
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG
have the option to remove this ad.)
Guus Thanks... but I am using watter as a stopbath. After the 8 minutes in developer I remove the spool with film from tank and put it in a bucket filled with watter for about 1 minute ... agitating in the same time the spool with film. After that i place back the spool in the tank (cleaned tank - washed) and fill it with fixer...
Lucian,
in that case I would also suggest that airbubbles are the cause of your problem
Regards,
Guus
__________________
Fotografen zien veel meer in hun leven
Lucian, bine ai venit pe APUG - I've been in your shoes for years i.e. developing with poor quality tanks but I avoided the corex system (instinctively, it never seamed safe to me). If you want I can buy and send you a Patterson tank with plastic spiral (double) where you can load one 120 or two 35 mm. I use the same and it works well so far. Send me a PM.
All the best
__________________ Mihai Costea
“To me, every hour of the light and dark is a miracle”( Walt Whitman-Miracles)
10x everyone for suggestions! Indeed there could be air bubles cought betwen film and corex band. I did not tap the tank considering the risk of cracking it, but the towel method seams a good ideea.
Nae merci si ti-am trimis un P.M. pe APUG
10x again everyone for helping me!
Just another thought...
My Rollei gives a series of little dots in the margin of any film, I think it's a pressure or mechanism thing in the camera.
If the dots are regular (in a line) I would suspect the camera is causing them. If they are in the margin it could be the film guides have sharp edges or burrs from wear?
I don't worry about mine they are in the margin so they make the camera more interesting :-)
You could try developing a film without putting through the camera, ruling out that possibility and then send a film shot in the camera to a lab.
Welcome to Apug
Mark
Thank you Mark! I'll try sacrifice a film and develop it. See if the spots are still there! If they are then the developing tank is the problem for sure!
Lucian
Linear Mode
