Now that you mention it, it doesn't actually smell as... fixerish as I THINK it should. Rotten eggs? Can't really say.
Overdilution is unlikely, as the very same thing happened with the remains of the previous bottle (same stuff, same batch, opened about 8 months ago, thought it had just gone bad.)
Tell me more about home made 60% Ammonium Thiosulfate rapid fixer, as it might be quicker for me to get ingredients than a newer bottle of Rapid Fixer?
And remember, the tmax DIDN'T clear in 11 minutes...
I had a similar problem with TMax 100 4x5 and Ilford Rapid Fixer.
I processed with TMax RS developer (the first time I've used it, in lieu of Xtol) using 1/2 gallon (2 Liter) tanks and stanless steel racks. Fixed for 6 minutes.
The film edges (rebate area) were a slight greenish opaque. I refixed and rewashed the film and it was the same. I dumped the fixer and made a new batch - same thing.
I haven't done anymore since - and am still not sure what went wrong (I figured human error of some sort), but when I read your post I thought I might mention this.
Neutral Rapid Fixer:
Originally Posted by fotomik
200ml ammonium thiosulfate 60% solution
sodium sulfite 15 grams
sodium metabisulfite 5 grams
water to make 1.0 liter
This should give you a pH of about 7.0
Use undiluted and fix with agitation for 2x the film clearing time
Everything is analog - even digital :D
There are lots of recipes for homemade fixers. Tom's posted one, which is Suzuki's neutral rapid fixer. Another, which is very similar (but a little more dilute and with less sodium metabisulfite), is TF-3. There are others, too, but I don't have URLs for them.
Originally Posted by fotomik
Another option is to use C-41 fixer. This reportedly works well with B&W film and it's inexpensive. It might not be any easier to find than B&W fixers, though.
Does sound like your fixer has broken down. Can you see any sludge in the bottom? If you pour it out and see that it has separated then it is NG, probably sitting on the shelf too long. Maybe you can get a refund?
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Ohhh, only just that there's some 25 litres of C41-fixer at work... Will investigate.
Still waiting to hear from Simon.
Sounds like that to me too.
Originally Posted by erikg
Fixer is crystal clear all the way though. No separation, no crystals, no odd colours.
How come it works better (but not completely) on TriX? TriX shouldn't be pink/purple after 8 minutes of fixer and a good wash, should it?
I got it from work, I'm going to have to take down the entire batch of the stuff that's on the shelves. Can't believe that I'm working in a photo store that sells broken fixer...
A single chemical fixer? Could there be a formula?
Originally Posted by srs5694
Could it even be called homemade? Stretching
it I suppose the anwser to both questions is
yes. I use Plain Fixer but use it very dilute.
Also, I use the anhydrous rather than the
penta sodium thiosulfate.
A or S thiosulfate, from batch to batch some little
variation in ph is bound to occure. I've found the
A form to be a very little alkaline while the
S form has run very slightly acid. Dan
Rapid fixers should clear any film in 20 seconds or less. Fixing for one minute with freshly diluted fixer should be enough. That being said, if the sensitizing dye stain "offends thine eye", add a tablespoon of Sodium Sulfite per gallon of working strength fixer, and that to will pass. Keep in mind that the stain is not photographic and will not reproduce and will fade with time or exposure to day light.
Apologies for not replying sooner but I have been on holiday for two weeks and just found this thread :
Its not new...batch LOT 21B008S was manufactured in June 2006 : I have checked and we have had no QC's ( Quality Complaints ) against this batch at all, of course we keep all the data.
BUT regardless it is well within life and should perform without any issues, my suggestion is take it back to where you bought it, they will return it to us and we will check it out.
Simon ILFORD Photo / HARMAN technology Limited :