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  1. #21

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    A decade or so ago, I used the D2D formula with good results. It was devised by Bill Davis and we have corresponded for many years on the subject of his formula. With his help and advice, I was getting good negatives with 4x5 FP4+. I was printing with a condenser light source at the time.

    Bill has been, for many years, an advisor on the Freestyle Photographic panel and would be a good contact for questions relating to D2D. He suggested that I use Borax from the grocery store, which worked fine.

    Bill is also an excellent photographer, and a small self-published book of his work, "Simple Pleasures", is available from Freestyle. This thread has renewed my interest in returning to a divided developer. Thanks.

    mergross.com

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Yes it does Paul, but the buffer capacity continues to rise!

    Don't forget that, as buffer capacity is very very important to all of this.

    PE
    Yes, I was doing a KISS posting! I presume if there is a large reserve of alkali, the fizzing will perhaps be more violent, which would also happen with a higher pH, I guess.

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by jim appleyard View Post
    SRS, the formula for D2D can be found in Anchell's
    "Darkroom Cookbook". I find it to be a very useful
    dev as it gives you three choices of "B".

    DO NOT use an acid stop bath with the carbonate "B" bath;
    you'll get blisters all over the film from the acid/carbonate
    reaction. A water rinse will do nicely and an alkaline fix
    is probably a good idea, too.
    I've Camera and Darkroom's extensive article by Steve Anchell
    covering the subject of divided developers. He has bisulfited
    a few of the formulas so as to lower the ph. By so doing
    development is essentialy confined to the B bath.

    Only three choices for the "B" bath? Let me guess; borax,
    sulfte, and carbonate. Those in order of increasing ph. An
    additional three might be; water, bicarbonate, metaborate.
    Water can be used but only if the A bath is active.

    A post B bath water rinse is needed if the film is to be
    returned to the A bath for a second or more times. And
    that only if the A bath is to be reused for a next roll or rolls.
    If though the A bath and B bath are used one-shot then
    skip the post B bath water rinse and return the film
    directly to the A bath. Dan

  4. #24

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    Stoeckler's Two Bath

    No discussion of divided developers would be
    near complete without considering Stoeckler's.
    From another perspective read about Stoeckler's,
    and the theory of and workings of divided
    developers by searching for Stoeckler's
    via Google. LOTS of information. Dan

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by dancqu View Post
    Only three choices for the "B" bath? Let me guess; borax,
    sulfte, and carbonate. Those in order of increasing ph. An
    additional three might be; water, bicarbonate, metaborate.
    Water can be used but only if the A bath is active.
    Dan
    The "B" that Anchell lists for D2D are a combo of 37.5g of borax and 30g of carbonate, but tell the reader that more or less carbonate can be used to alter the contrast.

    Anchell does list 3 "B's" for D-23D: borax, metaborate and carbonate.

  6. #26

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    For a divided developer, let me propose an alternative:

    Bath A:

    750 ml distilled water
    2.5 grams metol
    55 grams sodium sulfite (a)
    Water to make 1 liter (I always make 1 liter of Bath A, but
    Bath B is made to order for the size
    of the tank being used)

    Bath B: (this gets interesting)

    For 1 liter of Bath B:
    750 ml of water
    16 ml of HC110 OR *(see the note below)
    Water to make 1 liter

    Time in Bath A, 5 minutes with constant agitation
    Time in Bath B, 5 minutes with constant agitation will result in a CI of
    approximately .56 for many films such as 400 TMax,
    100 TMax, HP5+, FP4+, 125 Plus-X, 400 TX, Delta 100,
    100 Acros, APX-100, and Forte 200.
    Discard the B bath after one use, use the A bath for at least 15 times,
    maybe more.

    * I actually began using this type of two bath development with Bath B
    made up of UFG mixed 1 part stock to 4 parts water. I've also used
    Accufine 1 part stock to 4 parts water. I'm sure that most any single
    bath developer could be used if the correct dilution is determined.

    More serious fun: Monobath (Sorta)

    I've used this as a two bath developer with an incorporated fixer in the B
    Bath. It was really great with all of the films listed above, with the exceptions being the TMAX films, which were more contrasty. However, at
    the time I was using the B Monobath, I was using 3.5 grams of metol and 65 grams of sodium sulfite in the A Bath. It is in my plans to check the TMax films in the two bath developer with incorporated fixer with the metol and sodium sulfite reduced to 2.5 grams and 55 grams respectively.

    The two bath developer with incorporated filxer was tested mixed as below:

    Bath A:

    750 ml distilled water
    3.5 grams metol
    65 grams sodium sulfite (a)
    Water to make 1 liter (I always make 1 liter of Bath A, but
    Bath B is made to order for the size
    of the tank being used)

    Bath B:

    For 300 ml of Bath B:
    100 ml of stock Accufine
    200 ml of water
    1/3 tsp of Sodium Hydroxide (Red Devil Lye)
    2.5 tsp of Sodium Thiosulfate (this was pentahydrate crystals
    and I think that if you use the
    powder you should only use 60%
    of the amount I have listed,
    about 1.5 tsp.)
    Time in Bath A, 5 minutes, constant agitation.
    Time in Bath B, 10 minutes, constant agitation. Discard Bath B after using
    once. ( I've not tried less than 10 minutes, so it could be that less time
    would work)

    This will eventually build up a sludge in your tank, and you will have to clean
    it.

    This 2 bath developer with incorporated fixer will give negatives that are very
    much the same as the developer without the fixer described above.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by jim appleyard View Post
    The "B" that Anchell lists for D2D are a combo of 37.5g of borax and 30g of carbonate, but tell the reader that more or less carbonate can be used to alter the contrast.

    Anchell does list 3 "B's" for D-23D: borax, metaborate and carbonate.
    The B bath choice of alkali has little effect on contrast. It just develops faster. The contrast changes come with changes in Bath A. And not as much as you might think.

  8. #28

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    IDK, just passing along what's in the book.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by jim appleyard View Post
    IDK, just passing along what's in the book.
    No problem, I realize that.

    That's why I'm doing the experiments that I am. See my post above. Even the experts have just reiterated what others pulled out of their......parts.

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Verizzo View Post
    The B bath choice of alkali has little effect on contrast.
    It just develops faster. The contrast changes come
    with changes in Bath A.
    And what of the case where the A bath is inactive?
    Anchell's few bisulfited A bath formulas are inactive
    or near so. Your comment has very much the ring
    of All-Things-Being-Equal.

    BTW, that via Google for Stoeckler should have
    been, Stoeckler Developer. Dan

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