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  1. #1
    Silverpixels5's Avatar
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    Anybody have tips on printing 30 yr old Azo? I won some developing trays on ebay and the guy threw in some extras, one of them being a box of 4x5 Azo that expired in '73. The box has been opened, but is still pretty full. I have no idea of what condition it was stored in for the past 30 yrs. Any suggestions?

  2. #2

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    I have some Azo that expired in 1969. Works just as well as the new stuff. If you develop it in Dektol or Zone VI, it will be very cold blue color. I use Amidol, but others have used Agfa Neutol WA and liked it.
    Paul Hamann

  3. #3
    Silverpixels5's Avatar
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    Dektol has been getting on my nerves lately, and so I'm going to be trying Ansco 130. I also may give it a try in Rodinal 1:10 as discussed in a previous post. Thanks for the insight!
    RL Foley

  4. #4

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    I'd like to know what you think of Azo in Ansco 130.

    Thanks,

    Paul
    Paul Hamann

  5. #5
    Silverpixels5's Avatar
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    No prob...I should have the materials for it sometime next week, and I'll post my results shortly thereafter.
    RL Foley

  6. #6
    ann
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    Interesting, one of my dealers handed me a box of 4 X5 Azo dated 1964. I smiled and thank him. When I got to the darkroom i opened the box and took a piece out and ran developed, stopped , fixed, etc. The top few sheets and the bottom had strange things going on. THe wrapping paper was very musky which probably was the reason for the staining as the middle section was white. I expected some sort of fog and was really amazed that I got White paper. It will be fun to play with; and i was thinking about using LPD or perhaps Ansco 130 and then split tone . (or attempt to split, I have been told it will split.)

  7. #7

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    I purchased about 500 sheets of 8X10 a year ago. I am sure that this is really old since it includes grades one and four in addition to grades two and three. I have found that it is a better paper then current Azo. Reports are that early Azo had cadium incorportated in the emulsion and it absolutely glows. The cadium was latter eliminated for environmental considerations. On the old Azo I have noticed that in 6-128 selenium that it will split tone with the print values IV and below going to a faint red while the balance of the print values will hold a slight greenish tone. That can be both a boon and a detriment depending on what effect you want to achieve. This paper will last for a loooong time. I have heard people printing on Azo that has been over 60 years old. A lot depends on how it has been stored...if the original wrap is gone then it will probably not be good.
    Art is a step from what is obvious and well-known toward what is arcane and concealed.

    Visit my website at http://www.donaldmillerphotography.com

  8. #8

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    I remeber a while back someone asking a similar question of the LF forum page at photonet. (2years maybe?) I remember several respondents recommending the Ansco 130. If you want to investigate further, you would need to search the photonet site as I don't think the new site (Tuan's) is searchable yet.

    Let us know your results, I have seen old AZO come up on Ebay from time to time for a resonable price.

  9. #9
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  10. #10
    ann
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    Since I now have 5oo sheets of this stuff, i will make some contact prints and see what happens. The split mentioned above sounds interesting. I am going to use selenium and then gold toners. May try several different developers, as i have a variety available in the lab.
    The only thing I am not crazy about is the single weight of the paper; It will curl like crazy. I almost got rid of a drying screen that will be really helpful as one places the print between two sheets of fiber glass screening. Sort of a locking efect.
    Am interested in how the results turn out for the Ansco 130 as it will be easier and cheaper to use than Amidol. For such a small run of prints I rather not start down the Amidol trail as I am never sure just when I will get around to the project.

    I did remove the orginal wrap as it was very musky but re-packaged in black sleeves from some paper.

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