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  1. #21

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    I also followed your advise concerning a presoak in distilled water for about 2 to 3 minutes (BTZS tubes). I am very happy with the results!!

  2. #22

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    Sandy,

    I decided to test the 2:2:100 dilution on a negative which had an SBR of 9 (the film is still Efke PL100), using a time of 6m30sec. Although the negative was nicely developed, it did not have that extra glow I saw in those negatives which I developed using a dilution of 1:1:100 (SBR of 10, 11 and 13). I tried once more using another negative but still the same result. Not as much punch as the others. Is there any reason why, for this film, I should not standardise on a dilution of 1:1:100? Do you think that some films behave better at dilutions of 1:1:100 for all SBRs (e.g from 7 to 13) than others? Does your forthcoming address the issue (if there is one) of matching films to PYROCAT HD dilutions?

    I have another set of negatives which I shall develop at 1:1:100 to see if returning to this dilution brings back the "punchiness".

  3. #23

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    Francesco,
    At the risk of stealing Sandy's thunder, it is not a matter of matching films to Pyrocat dilutions so much as matching dilutions for desired density ranges in the negatives. 1-1-100 dilution is typically used for negatives designed for enlarging. (DR of 1.00). The 2-2-100 dilution is designed for negatives that have higher desired density ranges (Azo, Pt-pd, Carbon etc.) I am not sure what you are doing with your negatives. This is a general explanation.

  4. #24

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    Francesco,

    In my own work I have not noticed any difference in "punch" between negatives made with the 1:1:100 dilution and those made with the 2:2:100 dilution. Using the short times that are needed for developing with SBRs of 9 and greater we would expect to see less staining than with the longer times, and you would have less staining with the 2:2:100 dilution than with the 1:1:100 dilution, other things being equal. This may be what you are experiencing.

    My article does not address the issue of matching films to a specific dilution. That would be an enormous undertaking that would require extensive testing, printing, and print evaluation. What I would basically recommend is that alternative printers use the 2:2:100 dilution for all SBRs of 7 and less, and the 1:1:100 dilution of SBRs of 8 and more. I recommend the 1:1:100 dilution for all forms of projection printing. This is of course consistent with Donald’s comment that “it is not a matter of matching films to Pyrocat dilutions so much as matching dilutions for desired density ranges in the negatives.” And to a certain extent my recommendation is based on the desire to keep development times at more than five minutes whenever possible, and not on the fact that I have found any advantage in one of the dilutions.

  5. #25

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    Thanks for your comments. How would you describe the "look" of a negative with more staining? I was being very subjective in describing one as punchier. An objective description would be that the negative developed with the 2:2:100 dilution had a marked difference in appearance to the one developed in the 1:1:100 which may be related to some increase in density I have not seen before. Thanks again.
    Francesco

  6. #26

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    Francesco,

    You might be able to see a slight color difference if one of the negatives has more stain than the other. The one with more stain would look slightly browner than the one with less.

    Sandy

  7. #27

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    Sandy, you are absolutely right. There is a noticeable (more) brown colour on the negative with the 2:2:100 dilution. As a test once more, I just finished developing in the 1:1:100 dilution two negatives. I made a visual on all that I have done so far and it is clear that the 2:2:100 dilution results in a more brown stain.

    I would like to stress how nice PYROCAT HD and Efke PL100 work together. It seem like cheating when negatives like this come too easy.
    Francesco

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