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  1. #11
    Dan Henderson's Avatar
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    The instructions for DiXactol developer say to save the developer and pour it back into the film for 2 minutes after fixing to enhance the stain. This step is not necessary if an alkaline type fixer is used.


    web site: Dan Henderson, Photographer.com

    blog: https://danhendersonphotographer.wordpress.com/

    I am not anti-digital. I am pro-film.

  2. #12

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    Has anyone tried using the types of bleach used for toning prints? Potassium ferricyanide plus a halide. Then you could redevelop. I guess you'd need very dense negatives to start with.

  3. #13

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    Many intensifiers are based on the bleach-redevelop model. Chromium intensifier is one that comes to mind. You bleach the fixed film in dichromate and redevelop in something like Dektol. In fact, sepia toning a negative will intensify it a lot.

  4. #14

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    If I wanted to try sepia toning a negative, is it something done during the development process, or can I just grab an existing negative and tone it? I would imagine I would have to pre-soak it first in water, then tone. Would I have to re-fix afterward?

  5. #15
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    You can't direct sepia tone a negative in the initial development, go back to earlier posts in this thread. Soak ann existing processed neg for 5 mins in water, bleach wash & then tone. a re-Fix is optional.

    Ian

  6. #16

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    Thanks. I want to try sepia toning T-Max film. Can anyone suggest some good references for dilution and toning times?

  7. #17
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Just use the dilutions recommended for papers. Both the bleach and toning are to completion so the times aren't relevant.

    Ian

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