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  1. #1
    BrianPhotog's Avatar
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    Best from Acros 100 with what I have?

    In a couple of days I'll receive a brick of 120 Acros 100 (for use in a 6x12 back out my CG). It's the first time I've tried this film and would appreciate any exposure & processing suggestions.

    It's a tabular film() so I assume that I shouldn't overexpose as I do with tri-x or panF.

    At home I have a little Rodinal (hard to come by in Taipei), some DD-X, some T-Max developer, and a ton of HC-110.

    Output will be traditional printing with scans only for web-use.

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    nze
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    Just like to soup it in Rodinal 1+100 For 20 min with agitation first minute and then every 15 sec. this work great for printing. For scan only you may choose a quicker alternative. But these are easy to scan and full odf detail and information.
    Chris Nze
    me Apug Portfolio
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  3. #3

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    I expose it at 100 and develop it in Rodinal 1+100 as per the Massive Development Chart. Lovely results every time.

  4. #4

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    If you want to save your Rodinal, then use DDX. Mine was 35mm so can't guarantee that 120 is the same but DDX and 9 mins using Ilford agitation gives very sharp prints and great contrast. My skies were amongst the best I have managed in 35mm film. This was a time I used and was based on U.K. light conditions but it was based on a recommendation I got on the Ilford Photo forum where a moderator had used 8.5 mins but based in more southern lattitudes much closer to L.A latitudes and much contrastier light conditions.

    In Taipei or L.A. I think that 8.5 is probably nearer the correct time. Ilford doesn't give a time for Acros and DDX which is a pity as I thought it a great combination but the Massive Development Chart gives 9 mins for 35mm and 10 for 120 but as I say, I'd be tempted to scale this down for your latitudes unless it was particularly dull conditions.

    pentaxuser

    pentaxuser

  5. #5
    DWThomas's Avatar
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    I'm sure I've not yet plumbed all the subtleties, but lately I've been shooting 120 Acros 100 at ISO 80 and using HC110 "Dilution H" (1+63) for about nine minutes, four inversions each minute, for some respectable results.

    DaveT

  6. #6
    BrianPhotog's Avatar
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    Great info and you guys have given me some good starting points. Thank you!

  7. #7
    Iwagoshi's Avatar
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    Brian, just one more that was not mentioned but, of course, recommended by Fuji; Fuji Microfine, 10 minutes. Also don't skimp on the wash, it takes a while to get out the magenta dye.

  8. #8
    BrianPhotog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iwagoshi View Post
    Brian, just one more that was not mentioned but, of course, recommended by Fuji; Fuji Microfine, 10 minutes. Also don't skimp on the wash, it takes a while to get out the magenta dye.
    Unfortunately, I don't have access to Fuji chems in Taipei...Kodak and Ilford stuff is readily available and Rodinal can be had with a little effort (but only in over-priced smaller bottles). In a couple of months I'm heading back to L.A. to visit family, friends, and Freestyle, but they don't have Fuji chems listed on their website so I assume that they don't stock any in the store.

  9. #9
    Iwagoshi's Avatar
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    I ordered a batch from Megaperls in Japan, got in less than two weeks. If you APUG-search for Megaperls you'll find that a number of us are customers.

    Terry

  10. #10
    hka
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    Don't forget the Xtol or Mytol developer for this film. Very nice combo too. Sharp en crispy and nice tonation over de whole Z-range.
    harry

    Release, the best you can do...

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