Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,224   Posts: 1,532,585   Online: 971
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 20
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Missouri
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    138
    Images
    2

    Inexpensive Fiber Papers in Dektol?

    I have a small amount of experience in the darkroom and now have full access to one at our local college. In a week I've already nearly blown through one 25 sheet pack of Bergger VCNB 8x10 Glossy (fiber) and a 25 sheet pack of Ilford MGIV FB. This is getting spendy.

    I'm looking at the Oriental Seagull and Arista fiber paper brands and I would love to hear thoughts, opinions, experiences with some of the less expensive brands out there. I'm looking for a glossy, variable contrast fiber that will do okay in Dektol since that is what they use at the college. I'm planning on learning how to tone with selenium soon, so something that tones well is on the list too.

    Another question I have is, the school darkroom doesn't have tongs and we're just supposed to use our fingers. Obviously, this isn't ideal but I'm wondering just how bad it is? I have my own tongs that I can bring in if I need to.
    ~Jodi~

  2. #2
    Ian Grant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    West Midlands, UK, and Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    16,234
    Images
    148
    There aren't really any bad papers, but really you should stick to one for a while while yourv starting out. Try whatever the Arista budget Fibre base VC, they aim that at students, otherwise get the Kentmere from Freestyle. The only thing with Dektol is don't let the temperature drop below 20°C.

    Ian

  3. #3
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    14,218
    Images
    296
    I second Ian's sentiments. Ilford MGIV doesn't tone well in selenium, though. I know Kentmere does, and they have a private label version of the Kentmere paper too.

    Good luck, and have fun.

    - Thomas
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  4. #4
    Ian Grant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    West Midlands, UK, and Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    16,234
    Images
    148
    I think what was private label Kentmere has a slight name change and is a different paper from someone else but I could be wrong. Freestyle are now the official Kentmere distributor in the US. the Kentmere.com website is theirs not Ilford/Kentmere's.

    Ian

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,054
    BTW, I don't know of a paper that doesn't do well in Dektol.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Missouri
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    138
    Images
    2
    Thank you, Ian and Thomas. I guess I'll try a 25 pack of the Arista Classic and the Oriental Seagull and hopefully make a choice from there with what I should continue using. I did a search before posting for opinions on the Arista papers and couldn't find anything.

    Jim, perhaps I'm remembering incorrectly, but I thought I read somewhere that Dektol gives some papers a greenish tint? I read it over a year ago, so I could be wrong.
    ~Jodi~

  7. #7
    singram's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    St. Joseph, Il.
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    75
    Images
    9
    Ilford FB works really well in Dektol. A lot of the pictures in my portfolio are either Ilford FB or RC Pearl. I get very rich blacks and nice overall tones. I have tried the Arista.edu brands of papers, but RC instead of fiber, in the Arista chemistry (not Dektol) and found them to be muddy compared to Ilford.

    You should use tongs. Get three and label each one (with a marker) for Developer, Stop and Fix. Never touch any other chemical than the one you label for, to keep from getting "tong marks" on the corners of your prints. I always prop the respective tongs on the tray of chemicals they are used for, to keep them straight.

    After four years of college and about five years in the news biz as a photojournalist (back in the day when we shot film and printed pix for the back shop to screen) I never used tongs. I probably printed thousands of pictures this way, and now I have dermatitis on my "printing hand" which shows up the worst in the winter, and I also break out when I come in contact with fixer.

    steve

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    813
    Images
    9
    Definitely use tongs...

    If you can't afford the stainless ones with rubber tips ($10 each), at least get the bamboo with color-coded rubber tips...very inexpensive and usually 3 to a package.

    Don't use sloppy procedures. It will come back to haunt you...

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    544
    Hi Jodi,

    You can use tongs if you want to. However, you'll probably get chemicals on your hands whatever you do. If you have any cuts or grazes on your fingers, you'll soon know about them when they encounter the chemicals!

    I find tongs awkward, especially when dealing with larger than 10 x 12" prints. If you choose not to use tongs, remember to wash your hands at the least after every session. To protect your paper, wash all traces of fixer from fingers and dry them before handling fresh paper; this will avoid mysterious white marks on the prints. I hope your darkroom has a sink.

    All IMO, and of course YMMV.
    testing...

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,054
    Quote Originally Posted by jolynned View Post
    Jim, perhaps I'm remembering incorrectly, but I thought I read somewhere that Dektol gives some papers a greenish tint? I read it over a year ago, so I could be wrong.
    True, but sometimes the green goes away when dry. You can always go for a short time in a toner like selenium; only takes a minute or two.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin