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  1. #11
    DaveOttawa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brofkand View Post
    I "could" do it with 35mm, I "could" do it with digital, but either aren't really what I want. My 35mm SLR is a Nikon EM (won't have enough control), and my digital...let's not go there. There is a stark difference between grain and noise. I like grain, I hate noise.

    I am picking up a Canon Rebel from a freecycle member this weekend, so perhaps that will be better for this project if I am able to find Delta 3200 in a shop somewhere in Charlotte, NC. The one shop I know of says Ilford stuff is really hard to order.
    1) This is kind of obvious but if possible just meter the set & lighting you are going to use then calculate if the important areas will be exposed adequately or not, you now know roughly what the aperture and shutter speed of the camera are going to be and D3200 does have good latitude so the metering will tell you if this will work.
    2) The grain will be modest in an uncropped 8x10 enlargement from a 6x6 D3200 neg even using Rodinal, nice grain but not very pronounced. 35 mm might be better all round.
    3) "shop I know of says Ilford stuff is really hard to order" words fail me about this "shop" if they say that to a (potential) customer.

  2. #12

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    I will probably crop a bit because the Holga is a pretty wide angle camera, and I don't want too much negative space. We'll see though, I may not need to crop at all.

    The man at the stop said Ilford chemistry and paper is really hard to order (not as in many steps involved, as in often backordered i assume). He carried a few different types of Ilford film, but honestly the film I saw was pretty limited. I believe I saw HP5 and one other.

  3. #13

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    Ok maybe it's me but Holgas do have B setting so you can shoot as long an exposure as you like. The regular shutter speed is locked but you have a choice. Other option being if you don't have B is to put the toy on a tripod and fire the shutter multiple times and rack up the exposures till you're close to metered reading.

  4. #14
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    I guess it depends on how dark it is to answer how much you need to push...

    No matter how fast the film is, I've always ended up with no shadow detail at all when using the Holga in the dark, unless I use a cable release and a tripod and do time exposures. I think in order to get anything at, say EV4, EV5 or so (really dark) you'd need a lot more than 3200 at 1/50-1/100th of a second at f/8. Today I shot at a wedding (not shot a wedding, thank God!) in a fairly brightly lit house of God. At EV9 on my Gossen, I still had to shoot at 1/60s at f/4 to get a correct exposure and push the film to 3200. That's about two stops faster than the Holga. You need a lot of light at f/8 to get anything. No pushing in the world can compensate for that.

    If I were you I'd experiment. Set up a similar shot with similar lighting, and see what kind of exposure you need. Burn through a roll and cut it into strips. Develop the strips separately and one at a time. See what you get. Push if you can, or give more exposure if you have to.

    Good luck,

    - Thomas
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  5. #15

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    I've found you can get 6400 with extended development. With the 120 version you should get a final print that is moderately grainy, but with a good result, especially if you use care in exposing the film and then processing carefully. When the Kodak 3200 came out in the late 80's people extended the processing way up to EI 12,500 and 25,000 for photojournalism with some great results. Some people like seeing the grain in an available light photo produced from film.

  6. #16

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    If you're using flash it should be OK. Do you have a flash meter?
    If so, meter the flash to be f/8 at whatever ISO you rate the film at.
    If you don't have a meter & are using on camera flash you should be able to figure it out based on the guide number. I'm assuming it's the Holga with the hot shoe rather than the built in flash.

    I'm not sure how you'll get 3200 from Delta in Rodinal, I'd expect it to be a lower EI but you won't know until you test it.
    For supplies you might find it easiest to order direct from Freestyle in LA or B&H in NY.

  7. #17

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    Thanks everyone for their input.

    Here is my current plan:
    Use my D40 as a light meter. This will leave me guessing on flash exposure, but I can't afford a light meter. Use either the Holga or Nikon EM, and either HP5 or Delta 3200 (in the Holga) or 400 Arista II in the EM.

    I completely forgot the fact that the 120 film will have less grain than 35mm. I will probably work on this project this coming week. I will be sure to keep you posted.

  8. #18

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    "Use my D40 as a light meter. This will leave me guessing on flash exposure, but I can't afford a light meter."

    Your flash has a guide number which you should be able to find out from your destruction manual or the Nikon Website. Get out your measuring tape and use the GN and you will have extremely accurate flash exposures...although it is Holga, so it may not be all THAT accurate. The exposure that is good on your D40 won't be the best exposure to use for the film, because it will be extremely difficult to match the EIs exactly unless you have done a fair deal of testing. Additionally, you have to expose darker with digital than is optimum with film, because of digital's perfectly straight line curve, which will toast your highlights more harshly than film (and do it irrecoverably, unlike film). Also, the contrast of the digital pic set at ISO 3200 won't be the same as the ISO 1000 film exposed at 3200 and developed to compensate for the underexposure.

    If you are going to use the D40 for an exposure guide, instead of judging the jpeg on your LCD or looking at the histogram for the whole composition, I would recommend shooting a grey card at whatever f stop most closely matches the Holga's. Put the card right in front of your subject's face, and fill the frame with it. Leave your f stop set where it is and alter ISO until the grey card gives you a histogram that is nothing but a spike right in the middle. If it has to be a little off, make it a little higher than right in the middle rather than a little lower. Then, whichever ISO works, you can develop your Delta 1000 to get it there[abouts].
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 09-21-2008 at 03:10 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  9. #19

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    My guess, The max aperture of the Holga is around f/11. The opening is smaller than even the sunny setting on the "camera". Thank god its easy to modify if you like. On the Holga site there are plenty ideas. If you disasemple the camera you can bore out the opening making a larger aperture and you can make a smaller one on the arm.
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  10. #20

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    Thanks everyone for their input. I will be sure to keep you all informed as I progress in this project. I will shoot the picture sometime this week, and will post a scan of the final print hopefully this weekend.

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