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  1. #11
    CBG
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    I think Gainer is right on, but if you really want to waste lots of paper, just take a conventional paper developer formula and split off the accelerator into a second bath.

    The basic single solution formula for Kodak D-72 (Dektol)
    Water 750 ml
    Metol 3.1 g
    Sodium Sulphite anhyd 45 g
    Hydroquinone 12g
    Sodium Carbonate mono 80 g
    Potassium Bromide anhyd 2 g
    Water to make 1 L

    Maybe you could try breaking it into these two components:
    Tray 1
    Water 750 ml
    Metol 3.1 g
    Sodium Sulphite anhyd 45 g
    Hydroquinone 12g
    Potassium Bromide anhyd 2 g
    Water to make 1 L

    Tray 2
    Water 750 ml
    Sodium Carbonate mono 80 g
    Water to make 1 L

    I've never tried this so it's a pig in a poke.

    You'll probably have to mess with quantities to get the strength right, and even then, it'll probably be terribly substandard in it's action. I'm guessing you'll get flat underdeveloped results no matter how you adjust the formula. Regardless, if you make it work, I'll be thrilled to be proven wrong.

    Meanwhile the darkroom supply companies will be grateful for the additional business.

    Best,

    C

  2. #12

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    Ansel suggested, as was mentioned above, Selectol then Dektol and recommends a through effort to learn the ins and outs of using both before moving over to anything else. Another one noted by Ansel is DeBeers two component developer...which is carried by Formulary, and which I have not used.

    Regarding the temperature...your water appears to be much warmer then we experience from the tap in Florida. Even here, however, the water temperature from the tap can go over 75 F. So, how about taking some distilled water and making ice cubes with the distilled water...obviously, you can then add the cubes to the water you use to lower the temperature. Also, perhaps freezing some water in freezer bags, and adding the bags to your chemical solutions to lower the temperature might work. Do you have easy access to a refrigerator and freezer. I do believe that regardless of what you use, your chemical solutions should be at least below 80F, and certainly closer to 75F would probably be better. Do you have room in the refrigerator to put trays inside ( obviously, don't tell your spouse, and cover carefully with clear wrap or aluminum foil ) ?

  3. #13

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    ...not what I am talking about.

    Quote Originally Posted by egm66 View Post
    ... each containing a 'complete' developer (one soft and one hard)
    but that is not what I am talking about.

    How about a split paper developer where the 'activator' in bath
    B energizes the main developer absorbed by the paper in bath
    A to keep maximum black under control and let us worry less
    about time and temperature changes?
    How many posts have talked about that which the OP
    is NOT talking about. My first post this thread spoke
    of the split developer the OP IS talking about.

    My second post suggested higher dilutions for longer
    developing time.

    This third post suggests a third method for increasing
    developing time. Lesson the activity of the single
    developer by reducing the ph. The addition of
    some bicarbonate of soda will work.

    The best approach may be to Home-brew the paper
    developer using a blend of sodium carbonate
    and sodium bicarbonate. Dan

  4. #14

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    Ok....good suggestions. However, care to comment on the temperatures that are being used? Everything I have read suggests that the use of developers at such hight temperatures will not give results that are predictable, reliable, or sustainable.

    Ed

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mahler_one View Post
    Ok....good suggestions. However, care to comment on
    the temperatures that are being used? Everything I have
    read suggests that the use of developers at such high
    temperatures will not give results that are predictable,
    reliable, or sustainable. Ed
    Well lowering the temperature can be considered a forth approach.

    There is a fine point involved which I've never tested; that is the
    much increased activity of hydroquinone at elevated temperatures.
    I believe a lower ph less active developer will counter that increased
    activity. IIRC the OP mentioned the low 80s. That is high. So high
    as to preclude reasonable developing times so perhaps the
    problems mentioned. Dan

  6. #16
    gainer's Avatar
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    Something happened to one of my posts. Maybe I forgot to push the "Post Quick Reply" button.

    When I tried 2-bath print developer years ago, I found that the only thing it did was to cause me to rearrange my darkroom to make room for an extra tray. After not too many prints, the carry-over from tray 1 made the contents of tray 2 a complete developer anyway, so the idea of automatic limitation of development was mostly mythical. Ideally, the developer carried over should be killed by a very strong activator. To see if that actually happens, add a tiny amount of A to B and see if the mixture still develops after, say, the normal time between prints in your system.

    The ideas gleaned from Diafine and other 2-bath film developers are not strictly applicable to print development. The full density range of printing paper is used in most successful prints. If it is not, then a harder grade of paper is or a harder printing filter is used on VC paper. If the black tries to be too black for the right highlights, then a softer grade of paper or printing filter is used. On film, the maximum density range is seldom used. Even so, the idea that different exposure ranges on the same strip of film can be made to have the same density range by 2-bath development is largely mythical. You might expect a more linear characteristic curve with the 2-bath, but I never found a difference between D-23 and divided D-23 when the same density range resulted.

    It may be that some divided developer will help straighten out the highlights of a print, But I would never depend on it for automatic placement of highs and lows on any print from a negative that did not meet the density range required by the printing paper.
    Gadget Gainer

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