I received a very detailed reply from Wolfgang. Here it is:
Mark Tomlinson schrieb:
> Dear Wolfgang,
>
> I received a new batch of SE5 and it has a new additive (Omega) in
> addition to C and D which is nice, but the instructions for using it
> seem a little vague. Can you clarify a couple of things, please?
>
> Namely what is the capacity of the Omega other than it has 'limited
> life'? If the Omega only does 3 or 4 prints per litre at 1+100 then it
> will quickly run out as there is not much provided in the kit - I
> don't think it can be purchased separately at least in the UK if I am
> not mistaken. This makes it a bit pointless for me even to try as I
> will run out of Omega well before I run out of lith A and B.
Your Feedback is helpful. I cannot yet judge whether Omega is really be used or not. It was primarily intended as separated optional additive. Just for testing purposes I have enclosed it to SE5 - without changing the selling price of the kit. Please mention, it ony works well with chloride-emulsions like Fomatone or Forte. With Kentona or Kentmere Warmtone it works less colorfull, it doesn´t work with bromide papers. Therefor the field of application is bordered.
The Omega-bath works for 5-10 prints (24x30cm) or more, but with stronger saturation the effect will change. Normaly I make one litre and use 500ml and discard it, when it turns red.
>
> It appears that you use it as a second bath and pull the print from a
> strong first lith bath before completion and then put it in the Omega
> which enhances colour and black density. But how do you know when to
> pull from the 1st bath: I don't quite know what 'about halfway' means?
> Presumably you develop a print as per normal in the first bath and
> then cut this time in half as a starting point? Or is there a better
> way?
It is simpler than it seems to be. The normal way, to achieve destinctive chromaticity is a strong overexposure and that causes a strong dilution (1+30 ore more) and extended developing time.
Using Omega the same overexposure is needed, but with a dilution of 1+6 - 1+9 the image appeares quite quickly. You have to choose aexposure time, that the apperance of the shadows takes place in 1,5-3 minutes. Than you change into the second bath (Omega 1+100 - 1+500). The strength of the development in this bath is dependent on the amount of developer you carried over. As a rule, one or two minutes are enough, after three minutes the hydroquinone is exhausted.
>
> I also received the extra additives 'E' which I believe enhances
> blacks and gives more grain and 'F' which shifts colours towards red,
> but there are no instructions at all with these. What are good
> starting points for E and F and how long do these additives last in
> the bottle?
On the contrary to omega, F is an additive to replace a part of A - or in additional to A. It will fill up the midtones. F is more difficult than omega - therefor it will disappear in the near future.
Lith E (small amounts!) makes grain with bromide papers, with warmtone papers it draws off color and increases black.
F will last 1-3 years in filled bottle. E will last at infinity.
>
> Can I purchase your chemistry directly from you? Retro Photographic do
> not seem to have all your excellent products.
Yes, but shipping charge to GB is quite expensive - it is depending on weight. If you need a greater amount of omega, just let me know.
I hope you understand what I try to say in English.
__________________
Mark Tomlinson
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Presumably you develop a print as per normal in the first bath and then cut this in half as a starting point. Again if this requires a lot of experimentation then you will quickly run out of Omega.
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