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  1. #251
    Dr Croubie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CatLABS View Post
    A note about purple kodak stuff - it is US sensitive. Wash as indicated, and disregard the purple haze - leave negs in a sleeve for an hour in some light/indirect sunlight and see it disappear if you really are not a big purple fan (or use ilford films).
    I've generally disregarded the pink/purple staining on my negs, on most of them it just seems to go away even without the UV, just in a sleeve in a folder in a mostly-darkened room.

    Except a roll of XP2 that I shot once a few years ago, got it processed by a regular lab in regular C41, and it came out nicely clear as XP2 should do.
    Went to try printing it again last week, after 2 years in a folder, and it seems to have gone purple when it definitely wasn't when I got it.
    As it's C41, re-fixing probably isn't going to do much (and I don't know if RapidFixer is a good idea on C41 negs anyway, even the clearbase ones), is it worth just washing the hell out of it?
    An awful lot of electrons were terribly inconvenienced in the making of this post.

  2. #252

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    Quote Originally Posted by 37th Exposure View Post
    In the days of hardening hypo fixers and before HCA Kodak literature for its Brownie and other rollfilms stated that if running water is not available, five changes of water five minutes each with agitation is sufficient. A 1930 Ilford manual stated 7 to 8 changes, 5 mimutes each with agitation, if water is short. Leica manual 1930s suggested 8 changes, 2 minutes each, vigorous agitation, if water is short. ( if you own Niagara Falls, all give the usual 20-30 minute running water spiel). Water is always short these days, and if not don't try to make it that way. Anyway, do these archaic methods hold true today if hardening fix is used? With nonhardening fixers would these be more surefire than the surprisingly fast Ilford method of today of only three changes?
    And i totally forgot to respond to the OP - 10 water changes are all you need if you use a hypoclearing agent. In a nut shell.
    CatLABS of JP
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  3. #253

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    Quote Originally Posted by CatLABS View Post
    And i totally forgot to respond to the OP - 10 water changes are all you need if you use a hypoclearing agent. In a nut shell.
    Thanks. May I ask how to proceed? Like how many minutes, etc.

  4. #254
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Threads merged.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  5. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb View Post
    Threads merged.
    thank you
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  6. #256

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    Quote Originally Posted by 37th Exposure View Post
    Thanks. May I ask how to proceed? Like how many minutes, etc.
    You just need to fill, and dump.
    If you are doing roll film, you can flip the reels over so the top goes to the bottom half way through.
    CatLABS of JP
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  7. #257
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    I repeat! Use a retained Silver and retained Hypo test kit to test your wash conditions.

    PE

  8. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    I repeat! Use a retained Silver and retained Hypo test kit to test your wash conditions.

    PE

    PE,

    Maybe I'm a bit slow but who sells these kits? I tried a Google search and it didn't bring up anything I could match as being even remotely close to what you're suggesting. I've been meaning to actually invest in a Retained Silver Kit, but so far, drawn a blank. (Although TH does have it's drawbacks and nuances - so that could explain a lot!!)

  9. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    I repeat! Use a retained Silver and retained Hypo test kit to test your wash conditions.

    PE
    Dear PE,

    Just to be sure we are talking about the same:

    - retained silver test = Kodak Silver Residual Test => 1+9 KRST in plain water: a drop on the clear end of a B&W film, when the colour turns out yellowish then fix again…

    - retained hypo test = 1/1000 Potassium manganate (KMnO4) in plain water: a few drops in the last bit of washing water dripping out of the emulsion, when the colour turns out brownish then wash again…

    Thanks for commenting.
    Last edited by Philippe-Georges; 03-09-2014 at 03:44 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: correcting the sloppy grammar
    "...If you can not stand the rustle of the leafs, then do not go in to the woods..."
    (freely translated quote by Guido Gezelle)

    PS: English is only my third language, please do forgive me my sloppy grammar...

  10. #260
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    The retained Silver test is Sodium Sulfide in water, and the retained Hypo test is Acetic Acid + Silver Nitrate. The first forms a black color on the paper or film and the second forms a yellow color.

    I think that Freestyle, the Formulary and Fotoimpex all have these as standard stock items. Kodak and others have published the formulas for both along with color charts to give the user a hint as to his "quality".

    PE



 

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