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  1. #261

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    theformulae for both tests are given here http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Ar.../archival.html

  2. #262
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Thanks. I had lost my hard copy of that Kodak chart.

    PE

  3. #263
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    You may find my film washing test can answer some of these questions. I tested Ilford's and Kodak's published methods, and some variants and then used the retained hypo test to see if they worked or not. http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/8...hing-test.html

    Quote Originally Posted by 37th Exposure View Post
    Thanks. May I ask how to proceed? Like how many minutes, etc.
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  4. #264

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    Thanks all. I learned quite a lot following this thread.

  5. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Just FYI, Bill Troop and I are working on a new type of fixer which should allow a shorter wash cycle for film and paper than any other fixer now on the market for B&W products.

    PE
    oh do tell.is it alkali?
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  6. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBG View Post
    Forgive me but I need to digress to answer your query.

    Since washing photographic materials works by diffusion of the "bad" stuff outward from and area of high concentration, the film or print, to an area of low concentration, the wash water, and since the speed of the migration of the fixation products is determined by the relative concentrations of byproducts in the emulsion and the wash water, I've been convinced that the strongest washing is accomplished by total changes of water. In other words, the most effective wash method is by fill and dump since you reduce the concentration of fixation byproducts in the washing environment radically every time you dump and refill.

    C
    Yes, that's the processbut for me,the easiest way to keepthe concentration from getting into equilibriumis a constant low flowof fresh water;not the least amount of waterbutthe fastest wash.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  7. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    oh do tell.is it alkali?
    That is so old Ralph, it has a beard!

    It is acidic and is called TF-5. It can be had from the Formulary. We are also working on another one.

    TF-5 is odorless.

    PE

  8. #268

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    Sorry for not reading past more than your thread PE but it's late and I'm off to bed now. Just to say that history is a strange medium. Mid 70's (1976 iirc?) we had a severe drought in the UK. Hosepipe bans etc. The water shortage was bad enough to be of interest in the photo mags. RC paper best thing since sliced bread and all that.

    Anyway, up comes an a letter from Ilford about how to conserve water by using the ever increasing number of inversions then dump routine. This was imo, and I'm pretty sure to everyone else at the time, a purely stop gap measure to use during a water shortage.

    Lo and behold, in the fullness of time it becomes an archival method. Where did that come from? I was buying loads of photography mags at the time, trying to soak up knowledge like a sponge and I had never heard of it before that drought.

  9. #269
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    John, this method has caused quite a bit of controversy. Mason (of Ilford) in his textbook more or less says that it is not archival and others have agreed. A lot of math was used in his proof which I posted here and there on APUG.

    I have run tests and find that there is nothing better than running water, but you must judge by water conditions (salt content) and drought conditions.

    PE

  10. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    John, this method has caused quite a bit of controversy. Mason (of Ilford) in his textbook more or less says that it is not archival and others have agreed. A lot of math was used in his proof which I posted here and there on APUG.

    I have run tests and find that there is nothing better than running water, but you must judge by water conditions (salt content) and drought conditions.

    PE
    Speaking purely from my own experience, I've only ever used the Ilford Method and occasionally check my neg's. Even the earliest ones from 10 years ago still look as good as the day they were done. Contrasty, no fading and plenty of edge detail.


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