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  1. #11
    gainer's Avatar
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    Gordon Hutchings used to prescribe this return to the used developer after fixing, but no longer does. It is said to cause an overall stain, not proportional to the developed silver density, which is not desirable.
    Gadget Gainer

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole View Post
    It usually only makes a difference if both fixer and
    wash water are acidic.
    I'm quite sure I've seen a plain sodium thiosulfate fix
    recommended. See the thread Extending Fix Times, now
    current reading. I'm not spending any more time covering
    the plain fix subject other than to say, though slow due to
    dilution it is a very convenient fresh one-shot; ph, very
    nearly neutral. Dan

  3. #13

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    Welllllll, I use WD2D+ (inversion tank) and Pyrocat HD (rotating tank), neither with a post fix, both fixed with TF-4, plain water stop. And my negatives are beautiful.

    YMMV,
    tim in san jose
    Where ever you are, there you be.

  4. #14
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Ilford give pH's for both fixers of 5 - 5.5 (without a hardener) which is barely acidic, acetic acid used as a stop-bath in comparison has a pH of around 2.4. Fixers with a pH of 5.2 are often called neutral fixers to distinguish them from Acid fixers.

    Traditional "Acid Fixers" like Kodak F1, F5, F6, F7, F9, F16 etc contain Acetic acid, some Sulphuric acid, and can have a pH as low as 3, it's the fixers with a very low pH which will potentially cause detrimental effects on stained negatives.

    Ian

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