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  1. #1
    Dan Henderson's Avatar
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    Color from lith prints

    I have been using Foma MG classic in Fotospeed LD20 to make lith prints, getting a nice salmony color. I recently purchased some Rollie (Maco?) developer, and with the same paper, can coax nothing more than a clay color. Has anyone had good luck getting brighter colors from this combination?
    Thanks,
    Dan


    web site: Dan Henderson, Photographer.com

    blog: https://danhendersonphotographer.wordpress.com/

    I am not anti-digital. I am pro-film.

  2. #2
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Hi Dan,

    I think the Rollei is the same as Maco Superlith, and I made prints that looked almost identical to what I got from Fotospeed, but if memory serves me right, it took slightly weaker solution, more exposure, and higher temperature (80*F) to get there.
    Now I use AristaLith (which is dirt cheap, $12 for a powder kit for a gallon each of A and B) and that takes even more coaxing to get the colors, but it's a lot of fun to play with.

    - Thomas
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  3. #3
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    The nice color occurs because of pronounced under-development, so, as Thomas pointed out, try a more dilute solution. How many minutes before your image came up?

  4. #4

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    Dilute down, temperature up. If you aren't using healthy amounts of old brown, it is good to have a bottle of 10% KBr for seasoning.

    With weak, amber developer you can get pinks, greens and browns on the same print with this paper. And don't be discouraged with the clay colored prints, if you have enough density you can bleach and redevelop.



 

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