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Thread: Pyrocat HD

  1. #1
    ishutteratthethought's Avatar
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    Pyrocat HD

    Hello,
    I am about to embark on a different method of developing film with the use of Pyrocat HD rather than the standard D-76 which I have used for years.
    I have read a plethora of information on this developer and still do not know the basic procedure to develop Delta 100, 4 x 5 sheet film using Pyrocat HD.
    Can someone please layout the BASIC steps for using Pyrocat HD to develop Delta 4 x 5 sheet film?
    I will be using holders and stainless steel tanks.

    I believe I will be mixing 1 -1 -100. I have purchased and have 500 ml of each A & B solution from PFI. I also have standard Kodak fix, not sure if that will work. What would be the fix times?
    I can crash and burn to find out what works best however I am trying to minimize that method if possible.

    Thanks for your time.
    Steve

  2. #2
    Eric Rose's Avatar
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    You could try rating it at asa 64 and souping it for around 10 min's. 68F, 10sec agitation every 60sec's. That will probably get you into the ball park. Tweak from there.
    www.ericrose.com
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  3. #3
    Lee L's Avatar
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    You're not clear on which Kodak fix you're using, but you should use an alkaline fix, not an acid fix. Acid fix will clear the stain that you want with Pyrocat HD.

    Sandy King here on APUG is the one to ask for questions about Pyrocat HD. Perhaps he'll chime in.

    Lee

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    Andrew Moxom's Avatar
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    Steve, I've not used Delta 100 with Pyrocat HD, but have used it extensivley in the past for my TMY and Neopan-400 films. A good source for me were these links:-

    http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/pcat.html

    Sandy gives a great intro about pyro devs in general and includes some times and techniques. I would use these as a good grounding for anyone thinking about using staining devs to soup their film. Obviously it is written with using Pyrocat HD in mind. I find most success using pyrocat at 70 Deg for Neopan-400 and 72 deg fro TMY film.... All using 1:1:100 dilution. Roll films are souped using the extreme minimal agitation, and sheet film using a uniroller set up. Bare in mind that Pyrocat HD and MC were mainly degined for rotary devleopment, but can be used just as well with semi stand techniques.

    Also check out this site:- http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html I checked it and they did not have time listed for 120 or sheet film with your combination unfortunately, but it is a good site nonetheless usually.

    http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html
    Please check out my website www.amoxomphotography.com and APUG Portfolio .....

  5. #5
    ishutteratthethought's Avatar
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    I planned on using an acid fixer but will try an alkaline fix to be safe.
    Here is Sandy's quote from another site from March 2004 regarding fixing after Pyrocat development

    "I recommend a slightly alkaline fixer, but an acid fixer will not reduce image stain very much, if any, with Pyrocat-HD negatives. It may cut B+F (or general stain) slightly, but that kind of stain is just garbage anyway.
    Sandy King"

  6. #6
    Lee L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ishutteratthethought View Post
    I planned on using an acid fixer but will try an alkaline fix to be safe.
    Here is Sandy's quote from another site from March 2004 regarding fixing after Pyrocat development

    "I recommend a slightly alkaline fixer, but an acid fixer will not reduce image stain very much, if any, with Pyrocat-HD negatives. It may cut B+F (or general stain) slightly, but that kind of stain is just garbage anyway.
    Sandy King"
    Thanks. Hadn't seen that.

    Lee

  7. #7
    ishutteratthethought's Avatar
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    Andrew i did check these sites as well. I have accumulated a lot of info that I need to sort through. I do have a tube with an electric roller however the tube i have is a monster approximately 24 inches long and about 6 - 7 inches in diameter.
    Sounds like I’ll need to experiment.
    I do not plan on replacing D-76 for good, I just want to have more options to get the image on paper that i have in mind.
    Thanks to all.
    Steve

  8. #8
    Andrew Moxom's Avatar
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    Steve, A lot of folks use PF's TF-4 fixer. Personally I use Ilford Hypam..... It works great with pyrocat and even PF commented on that fact that Hypam fixer works well for Pyrocat stained negs. It's a non hardeing fix also as you may know, Pyro staining negs also has the benefit of the emulsion being hardened during development. So no need to have fixer that does it and have to extend the wash as a result.

    Ilford Hypam is available from West Photo for around $19 a gallon... Should last a long time.
    Please check out my website www.amoxomphotography.com and APUG Portfolio .....

  9. #9
    Lee L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Moxom View Post
    Ilford Hypam is available from West Photo for around $19 a gallon... Should last a long time.
    Next time you're in West Photo, tell them Lee said "Hello". Easy way to find out who was there in '81-'84.

    Lee

  10. #10
    ishutteratthethought's Avatar
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    will do Lee, i am excited to experiment with pyrocat. thanks for the info Andrew, let me know when the next APUG gathering is, wish I could have been there last week.
    Steve

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