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  1. #11
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    No, you cannot buy it.

    The formula is posted here on APUG: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum229/...us-things.html

    PE

  2. #12

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    Ok...found the article ... off to buy the chemicals tomorrow. Is a hardening fixer essential or can I use Ilford Rapid Fixer for this type of emulsion? I also normally use Multigrade developer. Will that be OK? Sorry for the novice questions. K

  3. #13
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    I would use a film developer for this such as D-76. A hardening fix is needed unless you add a hardener to the emulsion before coating. Plenty of comments about hardening are here in this forum.

    PE

  4. #14

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    One final question I promise (got all the chemicals today just waiting for the acetate strips to arrive). What development times for D-76 for say ISO3? I actually use Rodinal and DD-x, so guide times for that would be useful...but at least D-76 times would be a guid. Thanks for any help you can give. What does the Potassium Iodide do by the way...it seems so little?

    Rgds, kal

  5. #15
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    That emulsion uses the Iodide to increase speed.

    IDK what time of development would be good, but I suggest about 9 - 15 minutes in D-76 for trials.

    PE

  6. #16
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    If you use the AJ 12 emulsion you really need to use a more active developer than D-76, this was the first emulsion I experimented with, it's actually capable of surprisingly good results. D-76 isn't particularly clean working either, something like Ilford PQ Universal will give you far better results.

    Ian

  7. #17

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    Thanks guys. I guess that I can develop by inspection under safe light conditions? It would at least mean that I could do a single session to rate the film/development time with a variety of developers to judge the best outcome. I have also read in the forums that stop bath should be avoided with liquid emulsions...do you concur, and does it apply to this particular emulsion.

    Aslo, if Iodide induces Speed in the emulsion, is it a fair statement that more creates more speed, and less the reverse...i.e. How significant are changes in the iodide content, since my scale can only go to 1g, I was going to try and seperate the 1 g in to quarters visually to get near my recipe size (I want to do around 20 plates, not 100)...but I don't want to take that risk if it has a significant impact on the result long term (I would like to achieve a standard procedure)...Rgds, kal

  8. #18
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    No the Iodide/Bromide ratio reaches as balance point, speed & contrast can be improved significantly by determining the optimal digetsion/ripening times & temperatures, but that requires a lot of work, based on a substantially amount of research.

    Make up a 1% Iodide solution in deionised/distilled water and add the required volume of Iodide from that, it's far more accurate. Stop bath shouldn't be a problem I always used one. Personally I'd add 2-5 drops of Formalin/Formaldehyde solution to half a litre of the emulsion prior to coating, scale that down for your coating volume. There are better less toxic hardeners but as I trained as a biologist I was used to handling & working with rats, dogfish and other things preserved in far stronger Formaldehyde.

    Ian

  9. #19
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    One thing to remember. Potassium Iodide solution goes bad with keeping. I only keep mine for a week or two and keep it in the refrigerator.

    PE

  10. #20

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    Thanks PE. I bought 34g so if I need only a gram for 100 plates, I think I will be OK. I appreciate all your advice, both you, Ian et al. Every day on this site is an education. Rgds, Kal

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